After all, as the saying goes, “Fit is king”. You can attempt to dazzle with your patterns and color, but if the fit is off, it’s all gone to waste.
Certain tie knots look best with specific collar shapes. And specific collar shapes look best with certain face shapes. So, essentially, it all begins with your body composition and facial structure.
Let’s get into the three main face shapes, and the best
Oh, and if you like the ties you see in this article, they’re all from The Dark Knot.
The general rule of thumb for choosing the best
shirt collar Types
When it comes to pairing
- A wider or rounder face needs a narrower spread.
- A narrow, angular, or chiseled face needs a wider spread collar.
- For the average face shape, not too round, not too slim / narrow, go with something in the middle: a medium spread collar.
Pretty simple when you break it down that way, right?
Now, let’s get into the details and specific recommendations for each face shape.
What’s the best
shirt collar for a Slim Face?
Slim faces are best suited with a spread collar. If you aren’t familiar, this type of collar appears exactly how it sounds: the two points are very spread apart (the angle formed is greater than 90 degrees).
There are different types of spread collars, from the relatively modest semi spread collar, the standard spread collar, to the wider English or British spread, to the cutaway collar, which is extremely wide spread.
By the way, you may come across different names for each of these collars, so just be aware of and able to identify what they look like, and not just the specific name of each style.
For slim faces, a standard spread collar can be your go-to.
|Best Tie Knot||Half / Full Windsor, Pratt|
Like I mentioned earlier, you want to think in terms of opposites. So you complement a narrow face shape with a wider spread collar, again, for balance. The spread collar will give a narrow face and body the appearance of more width.
So let’s talk about tie knot choice.
For a wide spread collar, go with a Half or Full Windsor knot. Alternatively, check out the Pratt knot, which is one of the Effortless Gent’s go-to tie knot recommendations (goes well with most face shapes and collar styles).
A full body knot such as a Half / Full Windsor or the Pratt knot will fill the space between the collar points, and (similar to the collar style itself) it will emphasize the broadness of your collar, which balances your slim, angular face.
Shirt Collar That Suits A Round Face
For a gentleman with a rounder face, a point collar is the best pairing.
|Best ||Point, Medium|
|Best Tie Knot||Four-In-Hand, Double Four-In-Hand|
The point collar
It’s a popular and common style, and rightfully so since it’s the most neutral and works best for the majority of guys. Note that a point collar
Going back to our emphasis on balance through opposites, when you have a round face, a narrower point collar helps to detract from a wider frame and face shape.
So what’s the best tie knot for a point collar and a round face?
A Four-In-Hand or Double Four-In-Hand knot looks best. It fills just the right amount of space between the
If you are looking for a more substantive knot with the same general shape as the Four-In-Hand, I suggest the Double Four-In-Hand.
Shirt Collar For Oval Faces?
If you have an oval face, congratulations, you have the perfect blend of width and height. This means you could go either way with regard to collar styles and tie knots.
If you’re looking for something middle-of-the-road, a medium or semi spread collar works best.
|Best ||Medium or Semi Spread|
|Best Tie Knot||Pratt, Double Four-In-Hand, Half Windsor|
Similar to the types of
For the medium spread collar we recommend as a middle-of-the-road option, the Four In Hand, Double Four-In-Hand, or Pratt knot works best. The Half Windsor could also work. And of course the wider spread you go, the Pratt or Half Windsor will be your best options.
Other Things To Consider
Consider the function or occasion
In addition to facial structure considerations, paying attention to the occasions you are wearing a tie for can be useful in determining the type of tie knot.
If you’re in a social setting with friends, say at a bar or restaurant, and are sporting a skinnier tie… it’s best to go with a Four-In-Hand knot / narrower spread collar combo.
Since skinny ties by nature don’t have a large amount of fabric and are skinny throughout the entire length of the tie, a more vertical knot such as the Four-In-Hand knot will best complement the look.
If you’re attending a fancy event, like a gala fundraiser or a cocktail reception, a larger knot will look more professional.
But as always, facial considerations should be taken into account.
Hence, if you are slimmer, with a more angular face, you can opt for a Half Windsor knot. However, if you have a rounder face, stick with a Pratt or Double Four-In-Hand, and you’ll still have a sharp, professional look.
Consider the Necktie Fabric
The fabric of your necktie can also help determine which knot is best.
Ties with thicker interlining produce thicker knots in general, so I would try a Four-In-Hand in order to avoid an overly-large knot. For ties with thinner interlining, I like going with a Pratt, Double Four-In-Hand, or Half Windsor for a knot that is more substantial.
A Quick Summary Of The Best
Shirt Collars, Tie Knots, and Face Shape Combos
OK so let’s wrap this up!
First, always remember your overarching goal of balance. Opposites will actually complement each other. Wider face, narrower
So pay attention to the following when choosing your tie knot and
1. The right collar for your face shape
Wider spread collars are best suited for men with angular faces. This gives them a visually broader appearance. Narrow pointed collars best complement men with a rounder face by making them look longer.
For men with an oval face, a medium spread collar is the ideal option, but their facial structure allows more flexibility to wear any collar shape.
2. The right knot for your collar
Wide spread collars are best worn with more substantial knots which fill the space between the collar points, like the Half or Full Windsor Knot or the Pratt knot.
A medium spread collar is more flexible and can be worn with any knot. EG recommends the Double Four-In-Hand or the Pratt knot.
3. The right knot for the occasion
In 2021, we suggest avoiding skinnier ties, anything under 2.5″ width. Take this advice with a grain of salt; if you are have a particularly slim / narrow frame, a 2″ – 2.5″ tie may actually be perfect for you. It’s all about visual proportions.
As far as specific knots, Four-In-Hand is the catch-all tie knot. You can wear these on social occasions and for work.
If you’re attending a fancier event like a cocktail party or a gala fundraiser or something similar, a more symmetrical and substantial knot like the Half Windsor or Pratt knot would be best.
4. The right fabric for the knot
Thicker ties with woolen interlining are best suited for slimmer, narrower knots like the Four-In-Hand. A Windsor knot doesn’t pair well with thicker fabric or interlining because the final knot is simply too large.
Thinner ties or ones with a polyester interlining look best with a more substantial knot like the Pratt or Half Windsor.