Barron Cuadro

When you’re going for a smart sharp casual look, you have plenty of shoes to choose from, but you must choose wisely, especially if you’re looking to maintain a versatile yet minimal wardrobe.

White leather sneakers, while versatile, skew a bit too casual for your dressier occasions where a suit and tie are called for.

Black or dark brown leather cap toes, while elegant, can definitely feel too formal if you’re wearing jeans and a polo.

So what’s the alternative? The perfect middle ground that seems to look great and feel natural next to both casual-leaning and more formal-leaning outfits?

My money is on the tan leather loafer.

They’ve been my shoe of choice for YEARS, and barring any crazy weather, they’re the most common pair I reach for before heading out the door.

In this article, we’ll go over exactly how to wear loafers and what to wear them with.

More importantly, let’s get into the specifics of why I believe tan—also called cognac, or caramel, or “light brown”—leather loafers are the ONE pair of shoes every guy going for a smart, sharp look must have in his closet.

3 Reasons To Wear Tan Leather Loafers

There are plenty of reasons, yes, but let’s start with my top 3.

1. The loafer is the perfect shoe for a smart casual style

Tan leather loafers are just casual enough to be worn with chinos or jeans, and formal enough to be worn with trousers and a jacket.

Talk about versatile, am I right?

2. It elevates your casual looks

If you’re like me and dress mostly in a smart sharp casual sort of style, you’ll find that a sharp loafer comes in handy.

But even if you’re going more casual, like:

denim and a polo shirt, or
chinos, a T-shirt, and a denim jacket

…a tan leather loafer clicks up your stylishness like 2-3 notches.

Contrast that with a pair of minimal leather sneaks, which still looks great, sure… but it doesn’t elevate the whole look like tan leather loafers do.

3. It’s super comfortable!

You don’t have to worry about laces; loafers slip on and off super easily.

Of course, you can rock a sockless look in the summer (though I do recommend, at the very least, some absorbent insoles).

And you can wear them with warmer wool blend socks in the winter, or dress socks when you want to wear loafers with trousers or a suit.

The best tan leather loafers: What do they look like?

If you’re just getting into loafers (or leather dress shoes, in general) all loafers probably look the same. But there are a number of different styles of loafers.

The specific one I want you to get looks like this:

What sets this loafer apart from the others?

This is a penny loafer, for sure, but resembles an apron-style toe or Norwegian (minus the split toe) vs a moccasin-like construction.

This pair has an almond toe shape (more oval than circular, more pointed than round, slightly elongated but not too much… it’s a nice middle-of-the-road shape)

It’s hand-finished in a rich cognac color with variations of light and medium brown, and the slightly burnished toe and heel add a bit more interest.

top down view of loafers from Herring — This is an almond toe shape — not too rounded, not too pointy… just right

Finally, the leather is pebbled rather than smooth; the textured leather adds more interest to the overall look without being too over-the-top.

“Which loafer are you showing in these photos?”

This particular pair is the from Herring Shoes’ house line. Herring graciously partnered with us for this article (#spon) and also sent us a few pairs from their house line so I can see them in closer detail.

I have a couple pairs of tan loafers in my collection, but over the past few months these have become my absolute favorites.

I love the hand-finishing, which is what gives it that unique color variation. And the pebbled texture is so damn good looking!

Also, I’m a big fan of texture, like I previously mentioned, and good texture can really spice up an outfit without saying “Look at me look at me! I need attention!”

Herring is an online retailer of fine men’s shoes, but their house line in particular is worth your consideration. They’re high-end and incredibly well made for the price (made by Carlos Santos of Portugal, shoemakers since 1942)

One thing to note (especially my US readers): Even though Herring is based in the UK, they ship US orders daily using DHL, which means you often receive your order within ONE working day.

On top of that, they have an incredibly generous return policy (they offer a $10 return label to ship alllll the way back to the UK, if needed!)

Check out the Dartford loafer and all .

Why Cognac or Tan Leather Loafers?

A tan / cognac leather loafer is the perfect balance of casual and formal.

If you checked out the Spectrum of Style Formality, you know that loafers are in the middle, formality-wise, when you line up all the possible casual and formal shoe choices.

And as far as color is concerned, while tan / cognac is more on the casual side, overall, it’s still a very “dressy” shoe when you take into account the fact that it is a loafer (vs. say, a sneaker or a boat shoe).

In contrast, darker brown or black feels more formal, which can sometimes be tough to pull off casually.

This tan color with slight burnish feels not as formal, while obviously still being a very capable “dress shoe”.

Plus, these lighter to medium browns—again: tan, cognac, light brown, caramel—provide a great contrast to navy, gray, olive… the typical colors of jeans, chinos, and trousers.

Why go for a pebbled leather texture?

As much as I love a standard, smooth leather dress shoe, I’m really all about that texture.

Texture is fun to play with because it’s similar to pattern (like check or plaid or stripe) but much more subtle and interesting.

The pebbling on these leather loafers are, to me, much more interesting than any other smooth leather loafers I have.

At the same time, you don’t have to worry about texture taking away any of the formality, which means these will fit right in no matter if you’re more formal- or casual-leaning.

Wondering how to wear loafers? A few outfit ideas

Just to show you how versatile these can be, I’ve put together 3 different outfit ideas so you know what to wear with your loafers.

One’s more casual, the second, more what I consider “smart sharp casual”, and the third is obviously a formal look.

I typically dress in a smart sharp casual fashion, but just know that tan leather loafers are the best type of shoe because they can go with practically ANY style you choose.

1. Casual outfit with loafers

, Flint and Tinder 365 Pant, Anson belt, J.Crew shirt, Peter Manning quilted vest

So for this look, I went with gray chinos, a blue printed cotton sport shirt, and a quilted vest.

This outfit is the perfect example of simple casual with the option to “dress it up” just a touch with the loafers.

I mentioned earlier that you could dress even more casual (with a T-shirt and denim jacket, for example) and the tan loafers are still right at home.

2. Loafers with a Smart Sharp Casual outfit

, Levi’s 541 denim, Anson belt, SuitSupply dress shirt, Spier and Mackay jacket

For a slightly more dressed up look, I went with dark denim jeans, a simple white dress shirt, and a sport coat.

You can even do a tie with this look to take it up another notch. But regardless of what you decide, the point here is the loafers!

They’re the perfect accompaniment to this outfit, and I personally love the contrast of the tan color with the darker tones.

3. Formal outfit with loafers

, Spier and Mackay suit

Finally, for the formal option, I went with a navy blue Spier and Mackay suit, light blue striped dress shirt with button down collar, and a paisley tie.

Again, tan leather loafers fit seamlessly into this look. Sure, you could go with a black cap-toe or a dark brown wingtip, but you don’t have to. These loafers are a no-brainer.

Have I sold you on the tan leather loafer yet?

Now that you know why I suggest tan leather loafers for the all-in-one shoe perfect for 95% of your smart sharp casual outfits…

(not including your all-sweats-on-Sunday look, and your very occasional black-tie soiree, obviously)

…are you completely down with getting a pair for yourself?

, SuitSupply Shirt and Suit

Hopefully I’ve been convincing enough 😉

Definitely check out the Dartford model from Herring. The value you get for the price is insane.

I can speak from firsthand experience that they’re crazy comfortable. They hug my feet nicely with no heel slippage and have a really comfortable last.

Plus, the sexy silhouette simply looks great. The hand finished color and slight burnishing, and the pebbled leather texture? A nice, delightful bonus.

Whatever you choose, adding a tan leather loafer to your wardrobe is a smart move. I highly suggest you pick up a pair, stat!

How To Wear Loafers: The Best Shoe for a Smart Casual Style

If you’re shopping for a new suit, you have a few options: Off-the-rack (also called ready-to-wear), made-to-measure, and fully custom or bespoke.

Made-to-measure suiting has become very popular over the past decade or so, and there are plenty of companies online offering this service.

So I started this series, MTM Showdown, to highlight my experiences with every custom online suit maker I test out.

For this review article, I’ll be trying SuitSupply’s newly revamped Custom Made program, which is their made-to-measure service.

In MTM Showdown, I pay extra attention to fit: How my made-to-measure suit fits right out of the box, what turned out perfectly, and what I need to alter to get to 100%.

But since my overall process ordering this suit was a bit different (in that it wasn’t done 100% online), I’m going to approach this article a bit differently. In fact, I’ll be breaking down:

my entire experience
my own thoughts as I went through it
the outcome of the final garment (with photos), and
my overall opinion about whether or not going through SuitSupply’s Custom program is worth it

Hopefully this gives you more confidence in ordering made-to-measure suiting in the future, especially with SuitSupply’s Custom Made program.

And if you have any questions along the way, let me know!

SuitSupply’s New Custom Made program

A few months ago, my friends at SuitSupply invited me to their SoHo NYC location to give their new custom program a try.

They call this service “SuitSupply Custom Made”, which as I mentioned, is similar to a made-to-measure experience.

SuitSupply Custom Made vs Custom Made To Measure

SuitSupply is the first company I’ve tried who already has

a popular ready-to-wear line (obviously),
multiple physical locations, and
offers both made-to-measure and fully custom options (they call their fully custom option “Custom Made to Measure”… I know, it gets confusing)

browsing suitsupply store - effortless gent

So what’s the difference between SuitSupply’s Custom Made program and their Custom Made To Measure program?

You can think of it as 3 separate categories:

1. In-store suiting = Off-the-rack / Ready-to-wear

These suits are available to try on and buy right now, in stores and online. Most SuitSupply locations also offer in-store tailoring, which is super convenient.

You’re already in the shop buying the suit, might as well get it altered perfectly so you don’t have to worry about it later.

2. Custom Made → similar to Made-to-Measure

You choose the model, fit, fabric, and certain details of the suit, you get measured up, you place the order, and bam, you’re done.

The suit you receive is based off an already-existing pattern that is customized to fit your body.

So my suit, for example, is the Havana double-breasted model. My measurements were based off the 40S they had in-store. I chose the cloth (among what they had available in their fabric books, about 90 different options according to the website) and the details (lapels, buttons, etc.)

I’ll get into the details of my specific suit shortly… so keep reading.

3. Custom Made To Measure = Fully Custom

I don’t have firsthand experience with SuitSupply’s Custom Made To Measure program, but what it sounds like is a fully custom experience.

They take all your measurements and (again, I assume) create a fully unique pattern based off those measurements. So the pattern the cutters and sewers use to make your suit is 100% based off your body, not off an existing pattern.

These suits are full canvas and you have over 1000 fabrics to choose from, plus a “broad range” of unique design options (as the website states).

suitsupply store browsing suits and ties - effortless gent

SuitSupply’s old MTM program didn’t make sense…

SuitSupply’s Custom Made program is relatively new. They had a program in place before, but it was a bit different, and frankly, kind of difficult.

How so?

Well for one, they had many different silhouettes (around 12). They also had a bunch of fabric to choose from.

The problem was, depending on the suit silhouette you chose, you only had a specific set of fabrics to choose from that corresponded with that specific silhouette.

I always found that kinda weird. Why can’t I just pick the silhouette I want with whatever fabric I want?

I witnessed this earlier in the year when my buddy was planning on ordering a custom suit. He chose to customize a Washington fit SuitSupply suit, but the particular fabric he wanted (a brighter navy) was only available for Havana models…

This was all before the changes SuitSupply made to its Custom Made program.

The New and Improved SuitSupply Custom Made program

SuitSupply shrank the variety of silhouettes they offer, from around 12 to 5, which I personally think is much better and far less confusing.

suitsupply illustration of different fits from their custom made program — illustrations via SuitSupply

For the record, my favorite model is the Havana.

The Havana is considered a slim cut and has a soft shoulder, patch pockets, and a substantial yet balanced lapel… perfect for dressing up or down (versatility level 1000, Lean Wardrobe FTW)

This model comes in single- and double-breasted versions, as well as options for slit, flap, or patch pockets.

There are subtle variations in fit and detail for each of the models available in the Custom Made program, and on top of that, you can customize practically all aspects of the suit you’re designing. (I’ll get to that in a minute)

SuitSupply Custom Made Program

$89+

SuitSupply has two customization programs: You can customize an existing suit with options you choose, or you can custom make a suit from scratch.

LEARN MORE

SuitSupply’s Custom Made program can be done in-store or online

There are a few benefits of going through the Custom Made process in a SuitSupply store.

Their consultants are at your disposal and can help dial in on fit so you get it right the first time
You can touch and feel the fabric, buttons, and lining in person
You can nail all those little adjustments like sleeve length, trouser hem, jacket fit, etc.

I went through the ordering process in person (but you don’t have to)

For the purposes of this review, I’ll tell you about my in-store experience, but if you don’t live near a SuitSupply location, just know you can easily complete this whole order process online as well.

First: Try on a bunch of RTW suits

So if you come in to a physical store for the custom program, a consultant will probably give you the lay of the land and show you RTW (ready-to-wear, aka off-the-rack) examples of the different silhouettes, fabrics, and styles they have.

You choose a style and try on a few jackets and trousers to get your basic size. Your Custom Made order will be based off this ready-to-wear size.

suitsupply custom made trying on a ready to wear jacket and making sure shoulders fit well - effortless gent — Assessing fit and checking the shoulders using a ready-to-wear suitsupply jacket

Second: Fabric selection

From there, it’s time to choose your cloth!

You have a chance to go through the fabric books, or you can simply pick a fabric you like from the selection of suiting you see on the racks. And if you’re ordering online, they have detailed photos of each fabric.

For this order, I went with a dark green check in a wool silk linen blend. The weight is perfect for the warmer months and transitional seasons, and the check pattern will work great for my preferred “smart sharp style”, which is casual yet polished and refined.

Third: Jacket fit and details

After fabric selection, we moved on to the jacket fit. I went with the Havana (my favorite silhouette) but in a double-breasted configuration. Double-breasted jackets can be considered a dressier style, but I toned it down with the choice of fabric which is inherently more casual.

Next, the lining. You have the option to go unlined or lined. I chose this grey lining with a slightly mint green hue; I thought it looked great with the green tones of the jacket’s cloth.

Fourth: Trouser details

The trousers came up next. There are two fits: Brescia and Washington. Brescia is their standard rise and cut, while the Washington sits up a bit higher on the waist and is a bit more formal.

SuitSupply Custom Made Program

$89+

SuitSupply has two customization programs: You can customize an existing suit with options you choose, or you can custom make a suit from scratch.

LEARN MORE

I have a shorter torso, and so the Brescia (standard) trouser fits me like a higher-waisted trouser, with the waistband resting right under the belly button.

You also have the choice of standard belt loops or side adjusters + brace buttons (for braces, or suspenders).

My suggestion: If you plan on wearing this as a full suit, and especially if you want to wear it with a vest, go with side adjusters + brace buttons. It’s a much cleaner look (the presence of a belt breaks up the visual continuity of the suit).

I went with belt loops (plus brace buttons) because I personally plan on breaking this suit up more often than wearing it together.

suitsupply custom made choosing buttons - effortless gent — Figuring out which buttons I wanted on my suit

This essentially means I’d wear the jacket with jeans or chinos, and the trousers with a sweater or more casual jacket. (This style is very much in line with our Lean Wardrobe + High Low style philosophy, in case you were wondering).

Finally, you have the choice of cuffs (aka “turn ups”) or no cuffs. I love cuffs, so naturally, I chose with. The standard SuitSupply cuff height is 2”. A little more stylistically aggressive, which I like, but you can always request 1.5″ if you’re trying to be more subtle.

Fifth: Choose your buttons

After that, you move on to button selection. This button style is used not only on your jacket, but also your trousers and vest (if you choose to go with a vest).

Optional: Vest style selection

Speaking of… the vest (or waistcoat) selection comes next, right after choosing your buttons.

You have three choices of waistcoat styles:

single-breasted with lapel (called the “Capetown”)
double-breasted with lapel (“Pierre”)
and single-breasted with no lapel (“Ferrara”)

The single-breasted, no-lapel Ferrara would look great when wearing a full 3-piece suit, either single- or double-breasted jacket.

The Capetown—single-breasted waistcoat with lapel—would work great under a double-breasted Havana, and so I decided to go with this one for my order.

The Pierre—double-breasted waistcoat with lapel—would work under a single-breasted jacket (leave the jacket unbuttoned, always, when wearing a double-breasted waistcoat).

But, to be honest, I probably won’t wear this whole rig as a 3-piece. For the vest, I’d probably rock that with a different suit as an odd vest, which I always think looks great from a stylistic standpoint.

It would also look great on its own, styled, for example, with chinos, a dress shirt, and a military jacket.

If you wanted to add a waistcoat to your rotation, the Capetown and Pierre would be your jam. (By the way, SuitSupply sells these vests separately as well.)

Sixth: Another pair of pants?

OK, moving on to the next step in the Custom process: additional trousers.

Why would you need a second pair of trousers?

Well, if you wear suits a lot, and this one happens to be in your regular rotation, trousers tend to wear out much faster than jackets. So ordering a second pair would hedge against that (so you don’t wind up with an orphan jacket and no matching trousers).

Plus, if you are ordering a second pair, it’s always best to order everything together with the original suit, in case the fabric runs out, is no longer sold, or simply looks different.

Reason being, your entire suit is cut from one bolt of fabric, and if you order a second pair of pants, let’s say, a month later… they’ll be cutting from a different bolt, which means there could be a slight mismatch in color, pattern, or texture… even if it’s technically the same fabric.

In my case, I skipped this, because I don’t wear suits every day, and as I mentioned earlier, I’d probably be wearing these pieces separately more often than together.

suitsupply custom made suit pants and jacket sleeve adjustments - effortless gent — Finding my ideal sleeve and trouser length. These measurements were aded to my order so the final garment comes at the right length (or close to it)

Finally: Choosing your jacket and trouser size

When you’re ordering online, the last step would be choosing your jacket and waist size for your pants.

Since I was completing my order in the store, I was able to try on a few off-the-rack jackets. I put on this grey pinstripe; same exact model as I’m ordering, just in a different fabric.

Trying jackets and trousers on in-store is helpful if you don’t know your size.

The last time I was here ordering a suit, I was a size 42s. Over the past several months, I’ve dropped 25 lbs and on this visit, discovered that I now fit into a 40s!

So if you’re unsure, it definitely helps to visit your nearby store to try stuff on. But if you haven’t gone through any drastic body composition changes, and you know your suit size, you can be confident in ordering your size online.

By the way, I go with “short” over “regular” because the jacket fits me much more proportionally. I suggest the same for you if you’re under 5’8” or 5’9”.

Finally, trouser size! That’s pretty straightforward. The one thing worth mentioning is that the trouser sizes are more true to size than the vanity sizing most brands use. So for example, my SuitSupply trouser size is 34, but when I buy pants anywhere else, I’m a 31” or 32” waist.

From there, you tap Add to Bag, pay, and you’re done! Your suit should be delivered within 2-3 weeks.

SuitSupply Custom Made Program

$89+

SuitSupply has two customization programs: You can customize an existing suit with options you choose, or you can custom make a suit from scratch.

LEARN MORE

The Custom Made program includes free alterations

Your Custom Made suit may not fit you 100% perfectly when it arrives. That should be expected.

I completed this whole process in-store with a consultant, and even I had to go back in and get a few things altered.

Speaking of… with adjustments such as taking in the waist, slimming the jacket, shortening the sleeves, and taking up the trouser hem… those are all included with the Custom Made program.

Once your order comes in, you can bring it to your closest SuitSupply store. They’ll help you with all those adjustments and they typically finish within a week (but usually it’s much quicker than that).

Worst case, you don’t live near a SuitSupply store, so you’ll have to take it to your local, trusted tailor so he/she can make adjustments for you. You’ll obviously have to pay for these alterations, but hey, it’ll be worth it when you get your suit back and it fits you perfectly 🙂

suitsupply custom made - 3 piece suit jacket over shoulder and closeup of suit lapel and shoulder - effortless gent — (tap to enlarge in new tab)

How did my suit turn out?

Pretty great, if you ask me!

As you can see, the fit was pretty much on point.

When the suit first arrived, the trousers were a bit too long—I was looking for no break, but they came in with a full break, which was an easy adjustment (better to be too long than too short).

suitsupply custom made - fit check full body side front and back - effortless gent — (tap to enlarge in new tab)

After the hem was shortened, I got back to the studio to shoot photos and I noticed a few other things that needed adjustment.

This probably isn’t noticeable in the photos, but there’s a bit of extra fabric at the center back that needs to be pulled up under the lapel, and I need to let the left leg out ½” at the calf for a bit more room.

Is SuitSupply’s Custom Made program worth it?

I’d say so.

If you’re in the market for a sharp looking suit and considering SuitSupply anyway—I mean, why wouldn’t you be?—for just a bit more, you can get the perfect fit along with all the customizations your sartorial heart desires.

suitsupply custom made - putting on double breasted jacket wearing a vest and trousers - effortless gent — (tap to enlarge in new tab)

For example if you’re considering a Havana suit in a Super 120s mid-grey wool, you’re looking at $699 total.

If you go through the Custom Made program, you can find a similar S120s fabric (Custom Made has plenty more fabric options, but as I write this, I couldn’t find the exact fabric) for $170. Add that to the base price of $499 for a suit, and your total would be $669.

That miniscule savings in this one example isn’t the best part. The best part is…

You can fully customize your suit, and in-store alterations are included!

You can go with the Havana model, or maybe you want to switch to the Washington Cut, or the Lazio cut. You can!
Let’s say you stick with Havana—good choice, my friend—you can choose among flap pockets, or patch, or slit pockets.
You can choose a single- or double-breasted style.
You can customize your lining, your style of trousers, your cuffs, basically everything I already covered in this post.

And the price difference is negligible in most cases. Of course, if you choose premium cloth, your total price will be higher, but that’s to be expected.

suitsupply custom made - suit details closeup of vest trousers and jacket — (tap to enlarge in new tab)

Which is why I say that if you’re going for an off-the-rack SuitSupply suit, might as well spring for the Custom Made experience and really get a suit that’s uniquely yours.

SuitSupply Custom Made Program

$89+

SuitSupply has two customization programs: You can customize an existing suit with options you choose, or you can custom make a suit from scratch.

LEARN MORE

That’s all I got for ya!

I hope you enjoyed this in-depth article about my experience with SuitSupply’s Custom Made program.

As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, the folks at SuitSupply did invite me out to try the Custom Made program, and I was not charged for the suit I designed. But please know my thoughts and opinions are my own, and SuSu had no say in the final article. (This is true with every editorial review on Effortless Gent.)

suitsupply custom made - custom 3 piece suit double breasted jacket open and closed - effortless gent — (tap to enlarge in new tab)

I’ve also been a longtime fan and customer of SuitSupply; I’ve purchased my own suits and sport coats, as well as recommended them on this site, for many years, long before they ever knew of EG 😉

This article is #NOTsponsored, though I am a SuitSupply affiliate, which basically means if you use the links on Effortless Gent and happen to purchase a suit, I’ll earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you).

So if you found my review, photos, and general thoughts regarding this program useful, I hope you’ll consider using my links and supporting this site. Thanks in advance!

SuitSupply Custom Made Program

$89+

SuitSupply has two customization programs: You can customize an existing suit with options you choose, or you can custom make a suit from scratch.

LEARN MORE

In-store photos: Andrew Fatato

I tried SuitSupply’s new Custom Made program. Here’s how my suit turned out

Can you feel it when you walk outside?

There’s a crispness in the air. The wind is picking up. The leaves are starting to turn all shades of yellow, orange, and red… You no longer sweat the minute you step outside. Wearing your favorite pair of jeans isn’t as unbearable, because the scorching heat is gone…

Fellas, fall is here! And winter is right behind.

I want to help you dress sharp this fall and winter. So I put together a style guide for you to totally dominate men’s winter fashion this year. Enjoy!

(By the way, this guide is packed with info! Here are links to the main sections if you want to jump around)

Let’s get started, shall we?

Colors, Fabric, and Fit

back to section menu

In general, when it comes to colors, you’re going for darker, richer tones in your winter clothes.

And with fabrics, a heavier weight and more texture.

As far as fit, clothes should start slim and gradually become more roomy, naturally.

As an example, your layers that are closest to your skin should be slim and thin, and as you build your outfit with layering, your outermost pieces (midlayers, coats) may be looser, thicker, and / or heavier to accommodate all the layers.

See the sections below for more detail.

The Best Colors for Fall and Winter Clothes

When you think of fall, winter, and cold weather, what images pop up in your head? For me, it’s stuff like this:

men's winter fashion colors — Winter vibes… am I right?

And when you think of spring, summer, and hot weather, what images do you think of?

spring summer feelz — Ahhh… this image evokes spring and summer vibes

When it comes to color, think of your wardrobe in this same way.

For colder weather and the fall and winter seasons, take advantage of darker, richer, and deeper colors: navy, charcoal, camel, eggplant purple, forest green, burgundy, these kinds of colors.

And for spring and summer, go the opposite route – lighter colors, pastels, bright and vibrant hues.

The Best Fabrics for Fall and Winter Clothes

When it comes to winter fashion for men, the fabrics you wear will be heavier and thicker, warmer and more insular. This keeps the body heat in when you’re outside braving the colder temperatures.

For suits and sport coats, we’re talking winter-weight wools, flannels, and tweeds.

Sporting an all-season wool suit? You’ll have to compensate for lack of warmth by layering up with long johns and thermals. Or by adding mid-layers such as a sweater or thin quilted vest underneath your suit jacket.

Example of wearing a quilted vest or bodywarmer under a sport coat (see my Instagram post here →)

For casual clothing, you’ll probably be wearing:

Denim
Heavier-weight chinos
Twill and flannel shirts
Thicker wool, cotton, and cashmere
Heavier canvas and wool outerwear

Looking for layering inspiration?

Check out this Pinterest board I put together with plenty of winter layering ideas.

Here are some ideas for colors, fabrics, and patterns that can work well with your fall and winter wardrobe’s palette:

: This subtle pattern isn’t as bold as gingham, but still adds a nice touch to your dress shirt style. The windowpane design feels like a bit of a throwback while still looking modern. Wear it under a sweater for a look that breaks away from the solid dress shirt most people expect.

Chinos in Fall/Winter Tones: If you love bright and colored chinos in the summer, keep that look for fall. Just switch to darker shades and earthier tones – like burgundy, slate grey, chocolate brown, muted blue, and hunter green.

: This color and fabric are perfect for men’s winter fashion. It might not be the standout piece in your outfit, but it will definitely be the workhorse. The look and texture of these trousers go well with anything in your cold weather wardrobe. And they’re easy to dress both up and down–win-win!

: On transitional days or when you need extra warmth over a lightweight sweater, a denim jacket is a classic look. You can keep it casual or even rock a tie with your denim – if you style it right, like in these five examples.

: Athleisure is here to stay, but that’s no excuse to look schlubby just to stay warm. Expand your sportswear horizons with a grey crewneck sweatshirt that you can dress up or down with ease. Or rock a V-neck sweater for a similar layering effect but a different visual feel.

: V-neck and crewneck sweaters are great for layering. But if you want a piece with a more rugged edge, look no further than the shawl collar cardigan.

Versatility is its greatest asset. It can evoke a classic outdoorsman style, or it can be a bit dressier—you can’t go wrong. Use these tips to choose the right one for you.

Leather Jacket – Outside of the suit, a leather jacket is one of the biggest investments in your wardrobe. Just like a suit, there’s something transformative about putting on a properly fitted leather jacket. There’s no other way to describe it: You feel like a badass. Check out our guide to choosing the right leather jacket.

Fall, or as I like to call it, “Light Jacket Season” is my favorite time of year. You’re still dressing in a way that’s about style, not necessarily utility. You want to actually look good, not just feel warm. I like to play a game where I see how long I can wear my summer clothes, just by layering in cooler weather pieces. If the temperatures stay as warm as they’ve been, this year I’m shooting for November.

–Megan Collins recommends 20 fall jackets for guys at Style Girlfriend

How Fall and Winter Clothes Should Fit

As I mentioned in my summer clothes article, I prefer my warm-weather outfits to be a bit looser and more breathable. I don’t like clothing that’s tight and restrictive – especially when it’s hot and humid.

It’s the opposite for men’s winter fashion, especially as you layer. You want to make sure the layers closest to your skin are the most fitted. That avoids any extra bulk or wrinkling as you put on more layers – which is SUPER ANNOYING and uncomfortable.

Case in point: sweaters. Bulky sweaters with heavy fabrics and huge sleeves look bad and are no good for layering. To get the perfect fit, you want a slim profile with higher arm holes. It looks better and is much easier to layer over – maybe with a parka or coat.

YOU’LL LOVE THIS ONE, TOO

Effective Layering 101: Keeping Warm When The Temperatures Drop

Blazers give some guys trouble too. Summer-weight blazers are designed to stay close for a fitted look. But you need a bit more space in the winter so you can layer a sweater under it. Get the details in our guide to finding the perfect fit for your blazers – regardless of the season.

You may notice some parkas and topcoats are slightly oversized. You go with your normal size from a brand you know well, but it’s still too big. What gives?

Most likely because they assume you’ll be layering underneath, and the coat is designed to accommodate those extra layers. Choose your size accordingly.

Fall/Winter suits and Dress Clothes

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How to Wear a Suit and Tie in Cold Weather

A few years back, I attended a wedding in Mexico. I was one of the groomsmen, and we were all asked to wear mid-grey suits, white shirts, and a floral tie. Pretty simple.

I bought a Ludlow Traveler suit from J.Crew (2019 Update: If I had to buy today, I would suggest the SuitSupply Traveller) because I knew I had to:

Get that suit all the way to Mexico, and I didn’t want to worry about wrinkling – either in my suitcase or on my body – and
The Ludlow Traveler is unlined and lightweight, perfect for the hot Mexico sun (same goes for SuitSupply’s version).

A post shared by Barron Cuadro (@effortlessgent) on Aug 10, 2015 at 4:49pm PDT

One of the groomsmen had a mid-grey suit made from a winter-weight wool (poor guy). This was, legit, something you’d wear to work in the wintertime.

I was DYING in my (lightweight, unlined, unstructured, breathable) suit and had to stand still as much as possible so I didn’t sweat profusely. I felt so bad for this guy; I can’t imagine how hot he must’ve been.

winter vs summer suiting — One suit is wool flannel, the other is a lightweight wool… can you tell the difference between the two, just by looking at them? (both suits via Brooks Brothers)

If you don’t wear suits often, you don’t realize how many different types of fabric they can be made from.

Something that’s appropriate to wear in winter is definitely not one that can be worn to a summer wedding in Mexico.

Just like you have casual shirts that work better in winter than in summer (and vice versa), you will have suits that are better for colder weather.

What kind of fabric should my fall / winter suits be made from?

Wool flannel is among the comfiest and warmest suiting fabrics.

Remember that 100% wool cloth comes in different weights, with 12 oz being the minimum you want for a winter suit. Any lighter and you’re in “all-season” weight. That can work – but depending on how cold it gets where you live, you may need to layer up.

men's winter fashion - mtm winter suits — a nice selection of fall and winter fabrics for MTM suits, via Black Lapel (top) and Oliver Wicks (bottom)

If you’re buying suits off the rack (or even MTM), you most likely won’t have to worry about picking a specific weight as they’re categorized by season. So you simply shop for fall/winter suiting or spring/summer suiting – and you’re good.

Once you start going custom, that’s when you can select the specific cloth and weight.

MTM Showdown: See our reviews and first impressions of Black Lapel and Oliver Wicks

Are some colors better than others for fall and winter suits?

For a Lean Wardrobe, regardless of season, you’ll want a standard navy and/or mid-grey suit. Other colors that work for fall and winter weather specifically? Brown, rust, forest green, even an ash (light) grey.

If you wear suits every day, you have more options (stripes, checks, herringbone, houndstooth… the list goes on), since you have the opportunity to wear them all. But if you don’t wear suits often and you’re concerned about versatility and not looking like you own only one suit, stick to a simple navy and/or mid-grey color with no obvious pattern. A bit of texture, on the other hand, can’t hurt.

What about shirts, ties, and shoes?

Everything in your outfit should match the common theme… in this case, weather.

Not only should your suit be cold-weather appropriate, so should your shirt, tie, coat, and all your accessories. Meaning… you’re not going to wear a thin linen shirt with your wool flannel suit.

You won’t be rocking unlined suede loafers in the snow with your heavy wool coat either.

Every element in your outfit needs to follow the theme of “winter fashion” for it to make the most sense, not only from a look and feel perspective, but also from a practicality standpoint.

Need some winter outfit inspiration?

Check out my Pinterest board full of men’s outfit inspiration for the cold fall and winter months:

For shirts: Opt for a heavier dress shirt in pinpoint oxford, twill, or flannel. Curious about the characteristics of different cloths? Check out the reference guide from our friends at Proper Cloth. They’re is a great option for MTM shirts. For a nice selection of OTR shirts, check out .

For ties: I looove . They produce a substantial knot and look great with heavier-weight suit jackets and sport coats. (navy and burgundy are perfect Lean Wardrobe staples) also work well in the winter… actually, year-round. And you can’t go wrong with a standard silk tie. Just make sure the color palette makes sense with the rest of your outfit.

For shoes: in brown or black. Make sure to wear to protect them from water and salt.

A super simple secret to creating a sharp, layered outfit for fall is choosing pieces with different textures. Tweeds, chunky knit sweaters, flannels, wool overcoats, denim and chambray shirts all stack to build an intentional look.

Andrew Snavely has a ton of awesome outfit ideas called The Getups on Primer Magazine

Smart Casual in Cold Weather

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First, let’s cover a few basics about your casual clothing: colors, fabric thickness, and amount of clothing.

Colors: My winter wardrobe consists of much darker colors. Lots of navy, black, brown, forest green, burgundy, etc. My staples (like chambray shirts, OCBDs, and grey T-shirts) are the lightest colors that stay in the closet.

spring vs autumn colors — Great example of a spring / summer palette (left) vs. a fall / winter palette (right) (via The Sartorialist). Want to learn how to match clothes like a pro? Check out our eGuide

Compare that to my spring and summer clothing, which is mostly light colors – like white, light grey, light blue – plus a few pastels (lavender, light pink) and vibrant colors (orange, magenta).

I even put away my dark denim and swap them with my lightweight, stretch, light-wash denim. The only dark colors I have during spring and summer are my olive and navy linen shirts.

Thickness: Men’s winter fashion has plenty of heavier cottons, wools, thicker knits, more substantial woven shirts, etc. All layers in general are thicker to keep in warmth.

Contrast that with my spring and summer clothing, which is all lightweight EVERYTHING – from my denim and chinos, to the linen shirts I wear. And forget about layering; I avoid more than one layer unless I absolutely have to (like if I’m going to a nice dinner or getting drinks, I’ll throw on a linen or lightweight, unlined wool sport coat).

Amount: I generally just have more fall- and winter-appropriate clothing. Maybe that’s because there’s more layering involved (although you’d think I would have more spring/summer clothing, since I’m not layering as much…) Anyway, might be a different case for you. Let me know in the comments.

The ideal number of clothes in your lean, minimalist fall/winter wardrobe will depend on your situation, lifestyle, and surroundings. If you’re still in the process of building your minimalist wardrobe, read through all the articles here.

Smart Casual Accessories

You can elevate your smart casual look with a few carefully chosen accessories. Don’t go crazy here – but do make your outfit stand out with a few stylish touches.

Scarf – A wool or cashmere scarf is the perfect cold weather accessory. You can go with a fall/winter solid, neutral color – like grey – and your scarf will work with anything in your closet. Or choose a standout statement scarf in a colorful plaid. Our guide to scarves – with details on fabrics, knots, and more – can help.

Non-Boring Leather Gloves – Everyone has a pair of leather gloves with the three stitch design across the top. Upgrade to a pair that’s a little different. Think quilted cross stitching on the exterior, a racing inspired snap clasp at the wrist, or a combination leather and knit glove.

Weekender Watch – Even if you’re used to checking the time on your phone, your timepiece is a fun way to show off personal style. This goes well with the classic Timex watch and looks right at home as a fall staple. It may even become your new everyday statement piece.

Winter Beard – You don’t have to go full on lumberjack. But a bit of well groomed facial hair always fits in during the colder months. To stay professional and well trimmed, keep your neck shaved smooth and your beard lines well defined. The more stubble creep you allow, the less polished it looks.

Tired of the mess you see in and around the sink after trimming your beard? This comes equipped with a hair-capturing vacuum. At first it sounds like a gimmick, but after you use it a few times you’ll realize it cuts down on the mess by about 90%.

Flask – Taking pulls from a flask in the dead of summer means you might have a bit of a problem. But using a flask to carry and consume dark rum, whiskey, or bourbon after the leaves have started to fall is just too enjoyable to pass up. Use it to spike coffee or hot chocolate, or take it for a walk with you while you listen to a Saturday afternoon football game. Just be responsible, inconspicuous, and aware of your city’s public drinking laws.

I think a natural tendency for a lot of guys is to grab their puffy coat when it’s cold outside and call it a day. They’re missing out on an opportunity to create a more interesting look with layers, especially when you contrast things like casual and formal pieces.

A great example recently when it was cold: I threw a double breasted blazer over my denim jacket and got a ton of compliments. You can do something similar – wearing a leather jacket under a topcoat, or swapping in a flannel henley in place of a plain undershirt, unbuttoning your dress shirt a bit and letting the henley peak out. What’s great about adding more layering to your fall style is that it lets you wear some of your spring/summer clothes that would normally be too thin when it gets cold out.

Check out Peter Nguyen’s Fall Style Guide on The Essential Man

How to Choose and Care for Fall/Winter Shoes

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Fall/Winter Footwear

The wet, slushy, snowy season requires some thoughtful footwear choices. I still see guys walking around in the rain with jeans, Vans, and a hoodie… which confuses me. Is your goal to absorb as much moisture as possible?

It comes down to dressing appropriately for every occasion, and canvas shoes don’t hold up well in a storm.

Start with Socks

Go with merino wool socks for a thick, warm feel without the massive bulk of most heavy winter socks. They can replace your typical summer cotton socks and will winterize even your lightweight sneakers and loafers. Just don’t wear them with a suit – that still calls for a dressier sock.

Winter-Ready Shoes and Boots

: I still have my classic boot from the days when I used to wear baggier jeans. If I could remember to pull them out of the closet at my parents’ house, I’d wear them. If I had to start from scratch with Timberland, I’d pick up this pair.

: These ain’t your usual sorority sister’s Uggs! Vibram soles, lined with sheepskin, and in a cordovan color (editor’s note: not necessarily made of cordovan leather, thanks to reader Andre), these boots look awesome and will keep you warm and dry. They’re in a different league than the ubiquitous slip-on model worn by sloppy American college students nationwide. Just sayin’.

: These are my rainy day go-tos. I slip them on and go jump in puddles. Sometimes I splash K accidentally, but I don’t always tell her because she’d probably get mad. So yeah, they’re EG tested and approved!

: Caught in a downpour? Forced to wade in ankle-high water? Accidentally stepped in a deep puddle? No problem – as long as you have these on your feet.

: Rock them with a suit to work or with a rolled pant on the weekend to show off the heft of the sole. Choose your socks with caution – a bold sock with a bold shoe is too much.

Personally, a chunky brogue is my go-to versatile statement piece for fall and winter. This brown color can easily pair with your suit – or be dressed down with jeans for a dapper happy hour look.

How to Wear Boots with Every Outfit

I once got an email asking: “What’s the best way to wear (these boots) with my pants?”

Sure, it may seem a little daunting. You’re accustomed to shoes ending at the ankle.

To be honest, the only right way is whatever keeps you most dry.

Cuff up your denim, let them sit in between the boot’s tongue and back tab, or tuck them in if you have to. What matters most is not arriving dry.

If your cuff naturally drapes over the boot, that’s fine. But if your pants get wet, start rolling them up! Don’t stress about the rules of men’s winter fashion. Adapt, my friends. Adapt.

Protect Your Leather Shoes from Wet Weather

If you work in a formal setting that requires leather dress shoes, they’ll be okay – so long as you put in them at the end of the day. Let the leather rest. That’s very important.

Shoe trees. Rest for a day.

Dealing with Salt

Peeps in snowy areas, watch out for salt on your leather shoes. Salt + leather shoes = sad face, big time. This is all the more reason to NOT wear your nice leather shoes when you’re commuting by foot.

If you absolutely must wear your leather shoes when braving the elements, treat them with care as soon as you reach your destination. A simple wipe-off should suffice.

Be thorough – any stray slush or salt water will stain your shoes. And getting that stain removed is a pain in the butt.

Conditioning and polishing the leather will help keep your shoes in tip-top shape and ready for whatever you throw at it. This is another reason (if you haven’t yet been motivated) to polish your shoes regularly.

Think of it like moisturizing your skin after showering. If you don’t moisturize, you dry out, your skin gets rough and cracked, etc. Your leather shoes work the same way.

Want a step-by-step solution for de-salting (that’s not a word) your shoes? Check out this concise guide from Valet Magazine.

How to Avoid Slipping on the Ice

If you’re more concerned about your own safety (walking around on wet, icy, or snowy ground with leather soles is not very fun or sexy), then you have some alternatives.

Take your leather-soled shoes to a cobbler and have a thin rubber layer added. Many places do this and it shouldn’t be tough to find a cobbler who knows what you’re asking for.

I’ve heard arguments for and against this method. Some say it’s perfectly fine and they haven’t experienced any problems. Others have said adding a rubber layer decreases the breathability of the leather and can trap in moisture which leads to rotting, curling of the rubber, and in general, ruins your shoes long term.

I’ll leave it up to you to do the research and decide whether or not this is a good solution for you.

Another option is to use , which are overshoes (aka galoshes) that protect your shoes from the elements. They also increase your sole’s grip so you don’t slip and slide.

Some people think this is super nerdy. Others (like myself) think they look kinda cool. I don’t yet own a pair, but I’m inclined to pick some up and try them out. I encourage you to do the same; feel free to report back to me for extra bonus points.

For me, the best solution is a pair of dress shoes with a rubber or combination rubber/leather sole that you use on rainy and wet days. (More on that in our complete guide to brown leather shoes.)

The grippy rubber keeps you safe, minimizing slippage as you walk around. Aesthetically, you get the same look as your other dress shoes. The only difference is the less formal – but grippier – rubber sole.

EG’s Recommendations for Your Fall/Winter Wardrobe

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If you have a lean wardrobe, putting together outfits is simple. And transitioning them from spring/summer to fall/winter is just as easy.

For men’s winter fashion, you’re going to be working with thicker and heavier fabrics. And doing a bit more layering.

Y’know, to stay warm.

mens wardrobe essentials, effortlessgent

YOU’LL LOVE THIS ONE, TOO

Men’s Wardrobe Essentials: The Clothes A Man Needs In His Minimalist Wardrobe

The additional benefit to layering is that your outfits look waaaay more interesting than whatever you’d wear during the summer (typically one top and bottom layer. BORRRING).

I’ll use my lean wardrobe outfit as an example. I’d consider this my base uniform, as I wear some variation of this most days.

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Each piece of the outfit separately can be swapped out with similar items that are more appropriate for the season or the venue.

With each suggestion below, imagine swapping it out with the default option above. And for items that don’t exist in the default option (midlayers), simply add it in (i.e. shirt +VEST + sport coat)

So let’s fall/winter this bitch up! In terms of weather-appropriateness (thicker, warmer layers), here’s what I would do:

Fall / Winter Shirts

Chambray isn’t exactly a fall- and winter-specific shirt. But… I think of it like denim: easily worn year-round. So if you already have a favorite chambray, keep on wearing it through the winter months.

As far as OCBDs, brands make lighter-weight versions for spring and summer. But your standard Oxford cloth is pretty substantial and a great option for fall and winter.

I’d also consider flannel and twill shirts as men’s winter fashion appropriate; they keep you warmer during the winter months. Both casual and more formal options exist in both fabrics.

Fall / Winter Midlayers

J. Crew Merino V-Neck Sweater

$89+

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Midlayers are the secret sauce of perfectly-layered wardrobes. Instead of wearing one heavy coat, wear a midlayer and a jacket or light coat.

Having two warm layers makes it easier to regulate body temperature, vs. just a shirt and a thick, heavy coat.

If it gets too warm and you only have a coat on, you’re out of luck. Your only option is to take off the coat. That’s all you have. With no midlayer, you’ll get cold 4 minutes later and have to put the coat back on. And then take it off when you get warm again… it’s a vicious cycle.

Aesthetically, you can put together a more interesting look with multiple layers. So really, sweaters and vests not only regulate body temps better, they also add extra oomph to your outfit.

It’s important to make sure you have 2-3 versatile middle layers, such as vests and quarter zip sweaters (which are pretty much interchangeable). To maximize versatility, stick with neutral colors like grey, navy, black, tan or brown.

Most guys have a plenty of inner layers (like button up shirts) and outer layers (lightweight jackets), but the crucial middle layer is sometimes overlooked. My current favorite affordable middle layer is the .

–Brock McGoff has a few casual fall outfit ideas for you at The Modest Man

Fall / Winter pants

Denim is a great option for fall and winter. If you get the right pair of denim, you’ll be able to wear it casually (T-shirt and sneakers) and more formally (dress shirt, sport coat, and loafers, just like my default Lean Wardrobe outfit at the beginning of this section).

You can also choose heavier-weight chinos. For a dressier option, you can’t go wrong with flannel trousers like this pair from Franklin Tailored.

Fall / Winter Shoes

I typically wear brogues during the colder months, as I prefer a lighter-weight unlined leather or suede loafer when it’s hot out.

For a dressed-down shoe that you can wear with all the men’s winter fashion options above (yep, even those tailored trousers! High / Low FTW), throw on work boots or .

For a smart, sharp option, go with the Allen Edmonds Strand – an awesome cap toe with beautiful brogue detailing. You’ll see the dark brown model above, but my favorite is the .

Fall / Winter Outerwear

Here’s a little tip when it comes to sport coats: Look at them as jackets, instead of “half a suit”. That helps make them less intimidating and easier to incorporate into more outfits. They’ll make you look sharper even if the outfit has plenty of casual elements (like denim or white leather sneakers).

For extra warmth, opt for sport coats in a winter-weight wool or tweed. And for a smart, sharp, casual look, you can layer up with a V-neck sweater and a quilted jacket (like the one above), or and a field jacket[/earnist_link link_id="78705"].

Depending on where you live, you may need to go a bit heavier with a top coat, pea coat, parka, or down jacket. The pea coat and down jacket you see above are two of my current favorites.

How do you dress for fall and winter?

What it really boils down to is this: The perfect men’s winter fashion for you will depend on 1.) weather and 2.) formality.

Why?

Weather: If you’re in Minnesota, your fall and winter wardrobe will look a bit different than someone’s in Miami or Manhattan.
Formality: If you’re usually in business/formal environments, your everyday outfits will look different compared with that of a freelance web designer who works out of coffee shops.

Regardless, this is how it works: Start with a base outfit from your Lean Wardrobe (your uniform, what you typically wear most days) and Autumnize it (I just made up that word) by adding warmer, thicker, softer fabrics.

Where do YOU live? And what’s typical winter wear for you? Tell me below in the comments.

The Ultimate Guide to Dressing Your Best This Fall and Winter

Over the (almost) 10 years I’ve been writing for Effortless Gent, I’ve gotten to try many different brands.

suits and sport coats in particular have always been really fun to evaluate. I’m not an expert, per se, but over the years I’ve learned what makes a suit just OK, vs. what makes it great… as well as the features and details you must have, and the ones you’re OK living without.

The problem is, I’ve never had a good suggestion for guys who are suit shopping on a budget. Until now, of course.

Let me introduce you to Spier & Mackay

If you’re big into clothing and menswear like me, it’s likely you’ve already heard of this brand.

But, if you’re like most of my readers who are just starting to develop their own style and buy great clothes, then maybe you haven’t. And if that’s the case, I’m super excited to introduce you to Spier & Mackay.

I first discovered S&M around 2014 or so. I’ve kept my eye on them over the years as they regularly released new pieces and expanded their collection.

Originally posted this to my Insta here »

Around 2016-2017, I started really loving what they were putting out. Seems they hit their stride and were releasing garment after garment that looked awesome.

I bought my first piece in 2017, a wool and cashmere topcoat in camel. It instantly became my favorite outerwear piece that year, and it’s still my most-worn coat every winter.

I later bought a sport coat in this amazing brown and red guncheck tweed from Abraham Moon… a gorgeous, substantial cloth and well cut (at the time, I didn’t even need to take it to the tailor!)

Took this photo in Italy over New Years, check it out on my Instagram

5 Reasons You Should Shop Spier & Mackay For Your Next Suit (and Sport coat, and Dress Shirt, and…)

Obviously I’m a big fan of the brand, for a number of reasons. But here’s why I would consider S&M a worthwhile consideration if you’re looking for an awesome suit that won’t break the bank.

Reason 1: These are Modern, Updated Versions of Classic Menswear Staples

So what does that mean, exactly?

Basically that every garment is a classic piece you need in your wardrobe, but with fits and silhouettes that make sense for right now.

Spier & Mackay Suit full body shot front side and back — Tap image for full sized version in a new tab

BROWSE SPIER & MACKAY →

What’s considered “good fit” and “modern silhouette” changes over time. If you look at popular men’s suiting styles from the 70s vs the 90s, they were very different.

And compare suits from 2009 (peak Mad Men time) to today, just ten years later, and they’re also very different, most notably in the lapel size.

That’s why when you see a guy wearing a cheap suit from the 80s, for example, you know it looks old… and even if you aren’t a menswear expert, you can just tell something is off.

The silhouette and details are outdated, that’s why.

All this to say, suits from Spier & Mackay are classically styled but look modern and updated, with nothing overly-trendy or “of the moment”; these designs were meant to last.

If you go to Macy’s or Men’s Wearhouse, you’re getting a suit that’s made for the masses, and they’re either super trendy / off-trend (e.g. skinny lapels? why?), or they’re boxy and traditional and made from crunchy, crappy fabric.

Spier & Mackay suits, on the other hand, are designed with details that you’d normally find in suits double their price.

Every suit and sport coat features a lightweight half canvas construction made from genuine horsehair sourced directly from Italy. You want a canvassed suit jacket (vs fused) because it fits more comfortably on your body, the jacket’s drape is much more natural, and in general, the garment holds up better over time.

S&M uses Japanese Bemberg lining on the inside of their suits and sport coats, which is considered to be among the best lining available because it’s durable, yet lightweight and breathable at the same time.

They also use genuine bullhorn or nut buttons. You want horn (or nut) buttons over plastic. Plastic looks cheap and tends to break easily. It would be like bringing your Ferrari to Wal-Mart for new tires. Bad idea.

All trousers have a pleated curtain waistband construction (another sign of quality you typically only find in higher-end suits).

Each jacket has a German undercollar, and the way they’re constructed ensures that the collar lays flat on your body and helps to preserve the lapel roll, which is another detail you always want to look for… a gentle roll where your lapel and jacket buttons meet (vs. a smashed, creased, or pressed piece of fabric).

S&M suits feature Sous Bras (typically a high-end suit detail) which is essentially an extra piece of fabric sewn into the underarm. This adds a bit more comfort and helps absorb any sweat so you don’t get stains on your actual suit, which, of course, helps prolong the life of your jacket.

A Quick Aside re: Silhouette

A suit’s silhouette really makes or breaks the whole look.

In my experience, a relaxed silhouette and little to no shoulder padding looks best on most guys.

Spier & Mackay’s suits and sport coats embrace this relaxed, soft shoulder silhouette perfectly.

Their sport coats have a Neopolitan, or “spalla camicia”, shoulder construction (no padding, shirt style shoulders), and suits have a light padding to lend a bit of structure without being too obvious or overpowering.

A suit like this conforms better to your body. It feels more natural, and not like you’re wearing armor. It’s perfect for the smart, sharp, and casual Effortless Gent (e.g. You).

Reason 2: You Get Insane Bang For Your Buck

There are a few garments I highly advise you to not consider based on price alone: underwear, leather shoes, coats, and suits.

Here’s why: Quality construction and fabric matter so much more with these clothes.

For example, if you buy a pack of 3-for-$5 boxer briefs, you’re basically wrapping your package in burlap fabric.

Cheap, thin, rough fabric? On your junk? No bueno. So investing a bit more into better underwear makes a difference.

Same goes with coats. Cheap coats = synthetic fabrics, lack of warmth, questionable durability, and so on.

Naturally, you want to invest a bit more into your suits and sport coats as well.

The thing is, with Spier & Mackay, you’re getting great quality cloth, construction, and fit, but at a relatively inexpensive price… especially when you consider similar suiting from other brands that cost 2x to 3x+ as much.

Closeup of Spier & Mackay Guabello Suit Front And Side — Looking for the full sized image? Click to open in a new tab

BROWSE SPIER & MACKAY →

This particular suit is made with a navy wool cloth from Guabello and, at the time of publishing, is $448.

Once you dial in on your fit, you can confidently order a suit from S&M every time. And best of all the peeps at S&M are really helpful if you’re unsure what to order; just hit them up on email and they’ll walk you through it.

The value is apparent in every other garment they carry as well: Sport coats from $300 (and plenty more on sale as of right now), trousers from $88, and dress shirts from $45.

Plus they have all kinds of accessories (pocket squares, ties) and casual clothing options as well… same great prices.

You can find more details about their garments on this page.

Like I said earlier, when it comes to certain garments, I don’t suggest shopping solely based on price, but lucky for us, Spier & Mackay’s price-to-value ratio is off the charts (meaning you get a lot for your money!)

Reason 3: Incredible Fabric Selection For The Price

When shopping for suits, you may notice price can vary widely, even under one brand name. One of the biggest factors in pricing a suit is the fabric.

So if you find a brand new suit for $149, you can bet the construction is questionable, sure, but also that the cloth they used is subpar. Like, extremely subpar.

Spier & Mackay uses Italian and English cloth from well-known mills like:

VBC (Vitale Barberis Canonico)
Guabello (my suit in these photos is made from Guabello cloth)
Drago
Bottolli
Angelico
EThomas
Hardy Minnis

If you’re unfamiliar with these names, that’s fine… just do a bit of Googling and read up on these different mills and you’ll see they’re among the best.

The fact that S&M makes suits that are well cut, classically styled, and perfectly fitting… and use premium cloth, all for under $500 (sometimes under $400) is another reason I wholeheartedly recommend them.

Reason 4: Suit fit is on point

Let’s chat a bit more about fit.

For reference, here are some of my measurements and sizes:

I’m 5’9” (175cm), around 168 lbs (76 kg)
At J.Crew, I typically wear a 31w or 32w in pants, and Medium in most shirts, midlayers, and outerwear
At SuitSupply, I wear a 40s in the Havana cut, which fits me almost perfectly off the rack

I’d compare Spier & Mackay’s Contemporary Fit suiting to SuitSupply’s Havana cut. They’re very close, so if you know your size in SuitSupply, you can confidently order from S&M.

The Contemporary trouser cut is slightly wider and less tapered, but nothing a tailor couldn’t alter for you if you wanted a more aggressive taper.

I don’t have much firsthand experience with the Slim models. I’m not particularly slim—my back and chest are a bit wider, and my legs are bigger than the typical guy my height and weight—but I still wasn’t completely sure which model to go with at first (some brands’ “slim” fits are another brand’s “traditional” fit and so on)

After checking their measurement and sizing charts and reconfirming with the peeps at Spier & Mackay, the Contemporary fit turned out to be perfect.

So if you have a more athletic body type (wider back and chest, narrower waist, and / or more muscular legs), go with Contemporary and have your tailor alter them as needed.

If you’re on the slimmer side, go for the Slim fit.

Spier & Mackay Guabello Fabric Full Body View and Trousers Detail — Wanna see this full sized? Click the image (opens in a new tab)

BROWSE SPIER & MACKAY →

You can see in my photos that I opted for a more traditional and classic straight leg. I usually ask for a tapered leg as it feels more modern, but wanted to keep this more classic. To me, it fits well with the suit’s details in general, and I could always taper them in the future (which, I might… who knows)

This jacket features lapels on the wider side, which I love (4.25” for the size 40). Wider lapels look more masculine and help visually accentuate that V-taper, so always opt for wide over skinny lapels.

Great button stance (not too high, not too low), high armholes (great for movement and further complements the slim, modern silhouette), and the soft shoulders all make this suit a no-brainer pickup.

Reason 5: You can buy your whole wardrobe from Spier & Mackay

If you’re a fan of smart, sharp style—which I have to assume you are, since you’re an Effortless Gent reader—you can buy practically everything you need from Spier & Mackay.

Yes, you have your suits, sport coats, trousers, dress shirts, and ties. But you also have your more casual pieces like sweaters, polos, sweatshirts, and T-shirts.

You can even find shoes and accessories like pocket squares, scarves, and sunglasses. You basically have no excuse to not look sharp anymore 😉

I also have an oxford cloth button down, linen dress shirt, and button-down polo shirt from Spier & Mackay, all in my regular rotation. The same quality and care goes into every garment, and again, the price is unbeatable.

Add Spier & Mackay to your list of must-shop stores every season

There are a handful of brands I check out every season, just to see what they’ve released and what I could pick up to refresh my wardrobe.

I stick to the Lean Wardrobe philosophy so I don’t buy unnecessary items, but sometimes you just need a few new pieces to add to your wardrobe to freshen things up and have new options.

Spier & Mackay Guabello suit shirt and tie details — Feelin that full size goodness? Click to enlarge in a new tab

BROWSE SPIER & MACKAY →

Spier & Mackay is one of those brands for me. I look forward to seeing what they put out and it always takes a lot of willpower to not buy everything.

Anyway if you haven’t already shopped this brand, I hope you enjoyed this somewhat detailed dive into why I love them so much, and why I think you should buy your next suit or sport coat (or dress shirt, or chinos, or anything, really) from Spier & Mackay.

And in the interest of transparency, you should know that Spier & Mackay is an Effortless Gent partner (#sponsored), but it’s also a brand I’ve been wanting to work with for the past two or three years, and I’ve finally managed got them on board 🙂

I purchased my own products from them before they knew of me or Effortless Gent (this camel overcoat, this sport coat) and I’ve been a big fan of the brand since I discovered them back in 2014 as I mentioned earlier.

So rest assured all opinions are my own and know that’s how we approach all our sponsored content.

Thanks to S&M for being a partner, and thanks to you, dear reader, for supporting the brands that help make EG possible!

What’s your favorite piece from Spier & Mackay?

Take a look at their collection here and let me know!

5 Reasons This Under-The-Radar Menswear Company Should Be Your Next Stop For A Great Suit

This article is for the young guy in college (or getting ready to go to college) who wants to improve his wardrobe with the absolute essentials needed to dress a bit more grown-up.

So how should a kid in college dress? Most “menswear essentials” lists seem to be a bit tailored to older guys, and guys with more money.

What if you were on a budget but still wanted to dress in a smart, sharp, casual way? What are the absolute essentials that will get you started on your minimalist wardrobe, while still leaving some money in your pocket for pizza and beer and maybe a textbook here and there?

In this article, I’m going to give you a list of fall and winter budget-friendly essentials for your “starter level” grown-up wardrobe. Whether you’re a freshman or a grad student, you’ll be able to wear the smart sharp clothing on this list.

If you are a first year, just watch out for that Freshman 15 so you don’t have to keep sizing up 😉

When buying your college wardrobe essentials…

…just make sure to keep these things in mind!

Is this your definitive, grail, minimalist Lean Wardrobe in all its glory?

No, of course not.

For one, these suggestions are mostly for the fall and winter seasons. Naturally, some of the items are suggest can work year-round.

Second, since budget is the most important thing here, we’ll have to sacrifice a bit of quality and durability, but that’s OK. These are your college wardrobe essentials, after all… you’re most likely going to replace this stuff little by little throughout the years.

Eventually, when you start working and have a bit more disposable income, you’ll probably want to upgrade to nicer versions that are higher quality, made from better fabric, have a better brand name, etc.

But for now, let’s focus on getting the most bang for your buck.

Did you catch this video?

Luckily, you won’t have to sacrifice on fit!

When I was in college back in 2001 (whoa), there weren’t nearly as many budget-friendly clothing brands that catered to a younger guy looking for a classic wardrobe that also nailed fit.

Now, the options are plentiful.

In general, for a classic look, you want to 1.) buy your size, and 2.) choose a slimmer fit.

If you go too far in either direction—oversized and voluminous, or overly-tight and skinny—you’ll look too trendy.

Great example of overly tight and too loose. While trendy and fashion-forward, these styles go too far in either direction if you’re trying to wear a classic silhouette. (Images via 1, 2)

The goal is slim, but not tight. Do the best you can.

Take stock of your basic build and try on a bunch of stuff. And most likely, if you’ve never done this before, you’re wearing clothes that are 1-2 sizes too big, so size down.

Another bonus of wearing clothes that are your size and cut slim? They will fit closer to your body, which is more flattering and helps you appear more proportioned, taller, slimmer, and more mature.

Is this a list of trendy, fashion-forward clothing?

Nope. If that’s what you’re looking for, this isn’t the article for you, but you could check out this video for a few tips on dressing more stylishly.

This is a list meant specifically for the younger guy who wants a closet full of sharp basics and essentials… versatile pieces he can wear to class and on a date… to the library and to the bar… a wardrobe that will look great as a freshman, and as a grad student.

These clothes will help you appear older, but in a good way (not in a “senile 96-year-old grandpa” way, not even in a “40-year-old dad” way).

In a way that shows you’re put-together but still age-appropriate, that you care, that you’re intentional and thoughtful, and should be taken seriously.

Basically, these clothes will establish you as the guy who has his shit together (even if you don’t, 100% of the time).

“So, in a nutshell, what are we going for?”

We’re going for well-fitting, budget-friendly basics and essentials in muted, neutral colors.

These will build the base of your new, age-appropriate minimal wardrobe, and are the most versatile things you can own.

This new wardrobe will make you look older (without “dressing old”), more sophisticated, and like you know what you’re doing on campus (yep, even if you’re just wearing a T-shirt and jeans!)

College Wardrobe Essentials Infographic: A quick reference guide

Want all my clothing suggestions and outfit ideas in one place? Download the infographic I created below. Just click the image and it will open in a new tab!

Essential shirts for your minimal lean wardrobe

T-shirts in gray, black, and white

This doesn’t need much explanation. Every list of basics and essentials has a few Ts. The important part is, again, making sure they fit well.

You don’t want them to be:

too long (rule of thumb: if the hem goes past the middle of your back pocket, your T-shirt is too long)
too wide (looks sloppy, makes you look bigger than you are)
A size too big (the shoulder seam will fall past your shoulder bone, the sleeves are too wide, overall sloppy looking)

I talk in more detail about shirt fit tips here that you’ll probably find useful if you’re still trying to nail down the ideal fit.

Buy the Uniqlo Supima Tee

As far as colors, the most versatile T-shirt you’ll own is a medium grey tee. It looks great with every pair of pants / shoe color / jacket combo you can think of. It’s the perfect neutral!

Of course, a black and a white tee are also great to own and come in handy when you’re in a pinch and just need to look good with minimal effort.

The Uniqlo Supima Tee is, by far, the best T-shirt I’ve come across. Supremely soft, well constructed, plenty of colors, and only $10.

Great budget button-up shirts

You might be thinking, “Button up shirts are too formal for school”. Untrue!

The truth is this: you’re not used to wearing them. Therefore, you’re uncomfortable and self-conscious, therefore, you think they’re too formal.

But they’re not. Give it a chance before dismissing them as too formal. It’s really all about the types of button-up shirts you buy. You can’t snag your dad’s OCBDs he wears with his suits to work, because those will be too formal.

These button-up shirts, however, will be perfect for on-campus outfits.

So I suggest: one white OCBD, one medium chambray or denim shirt, and one medium check shirt.

Buy White Oxford Shirt Buy Denim Shirt Buy Flannel Check Shirt

The white OCBD will give you a crisp, clean, slightly preppy look, and if you feel the need to make it even more casual, throw on your grey T-shirt underneath and wear it unbuttoned.

A chambray or denim shirt is my personal favorite—seriously, I own like 6 in all different styles and shades of blue—and can be worn with several different pants and shorts.

And “medium check shirt” may be a little vague, I know. I don’t want to suggest a plaid shirt, because that comes off sorta young and / or “bro”, especially if you get any ol’ plaid shirt off the rack at your basic men’s store.

A decently-sized check shirt, however, can look more elevated with just the right amount of visual interest (keeping everything else in your outfit solid).

For fall and winter, I suggest a wool or flannel red and black (navy, like in the example above, also looks awesome) buffalo check shirt. It’s a classic look, has major fall feels, and looks great with all your pants options.

A thick wool one can be worn as an overshirt (over a T-shirt, as a lighter outerwear item, and a medium-weight flannel version could be worn under a quilted or puffer vest for a bit of extra warmth.

The best pants for your budget minimal wardrobe

OK, let’s move onto pants, yeah?

The list basically boils down to a couple pairs of jeans, and a couple chinos.

“How should my pants fit?”

Same idea as your shirts. Slim, but not tight. A quick fit check: If you can pinch about 1” of fabric total in between your thumb and index finger, that’s about the right amount of slimness.

Your mileage may vary on this rule of thumb so use your best judgement.

As far as length, go for no break. What that means is, the hem will end right where your shoe begins. No piling up of fabric at your ankles. Why? This is the cleanest look, that’s why.

Rolling your jeans is OK. I often cuff mine 1-2 times. I also like a taller cuff (personal preference), but if yours are around 1.5” or so, that’s a decent size cuff. Rolling saves money so you’re not tailoring your jeans, and I think having a cuff looks cooler anyway.

“Which pants do I buy?”

Buy Uniqlo denim Buy Uniqlo chinos

For jeans: One pair of inky, raw, unwashed dark denim, and one pair of medium rinse denim. The dark ones have that ability to be dressed up or down as needed. The medium blue wash will be more casual.

For chinos: Your best bets will be one pair of charcoal chinos, and another in a British khaki color (slightly darker than your typical pair of khakis your farty old professor wears).

“What’s the difference between khakis and chinos?” Chino refers to the style of pants, and khaki refers to the color. But since chinos are usually khaki-colored, over time, we just started calling chinos “khakis“.

Trying to go über minimal? 1 pair of dark denim, 1 pair of British khaki chinos.

Great shoes for a guy’s budget minimal wardrobe

You can’t get any more versatile than a pair of all white leather sneakers. Shorts to dress trousers; they can be worn with anything.

The problem is, the versions that are commonly recommended (yes, including the ones I personally always recommend) are easily over $200. That’s because good leather and quality shoe construction are costly.

However, if we’re focusing on getting the right look, and we’re OK with sacrificing a bit of quality for now, there are a few options.

Buy white sneakers Buy brown boots Buy brown dress shoes

Besides a pair of all white leather sneakers, a lightweight canvas sneaker in grey or off-white is also a nice pair to have. I wear my off-white Seavees a bunch in the warmer months.

Moving on, a pair of boots is another great shoe option to have!

You can go the work or combat boot route, which is a no-brainer for fall and winter casual outfits (not to mention trekking the rainy, sleety, or snowy sidewalks). For something slightly more elevated, try a suede desert boot.

Finally, I debated for a while about including this last shoe, but I think it’s important to have at least ONE pair, juuust in case you need to dress up… and that is, obviously, a pair of dress shoes.

I’m suggesting a brown leather plain toe derby. In terms of formality, this is on the more casual side of the spectrum. You can wear this with your dark denim just as easily as a charcoal suit or dress trousers. So, again, versatility for the win!

Two Budget-friendly Outerwear Essentials for your Wardrobe

Every guy can make use of the Uniqlo lightweight down vest and down jacket. They’re really warm, yet surprisingly light and easily packable.

Buy Uniqlo Ultra Light Down Jacket / Vest

I have two of these vests and one jacket. I wear the jacket for casual outfits, quick runs to the store in the winter, hitting up the gym, etc.

And I use the vests over a sweater if it’s only a bit chilly, or as a midlayer under a heavier jacket or sportcoat when I’m dressing up a bit.

The One Dressier Item You Need In Your College Wardrobe, Just In Case

This is definitely optional depending on how often you need to dress up, but in a pinch, a dark navy wool sportcoat can definitely come in handy.

This isn’t your classic prep school blazer with gold buttons. This is thicker and heavier to keep you warm, with casual details throughout: patch pockets, nappier cloth, possibly suede or corduroy elbow patches (you’ll find this detail on some, but not all jackets).

Buy J.Crew Factory Thompson Sportcoat

Similarly to the shoes, you won’t get the best quality or all the right details with a budget version—for example, this one has flap pockets (totally fine), a slightly narrower lapel, and only a single vent—but that’s OK. You can always upgrade to better versions later.

What keeps this young and cool and age appropriate is the fit. It shouldn’t swallow you like your old college professor’s jacket does. It should fit slim in the body (not tight, with a low button stance and slightly wider lapels (none of that skinny lapel shit from 2007).

The hem should cover your butt (at least til where your cheek meets your leg) and ideally, two vents at the back. Remember to remove all those extra stitches (they look like Xs on the vents and at the cuffs, and dotted lines along the shoulders.

3 easy, campus-appropriate outfit combos from all these essentials!

Maybe you’re stuck. You bought all the clothes, but you’re not sure how to wear them together?

Here’s the good news: Because most (if not all) of the clothes we picked out are what I call “menswear neutrals”, everything can be worn together without risk of mismatching or clashing.

More good news: Menswear neutrals are perfect if you ever want to wear any other color that isn’t a part of the menswear neutral category.

So colors like red, bright green, yellow, purple, and so on? All these colors (and a mix of them, like in a plaid button-up shirt, for example) go with menswear neutrals.

Just keep all that in mind. For now, here are some outfit examples you can try with your new clothes you just bought.

College Outfit Idea #1

This would be a great outfit for running to class.

Super easy to throw on, everything matches (of course, #menswearneutrals) and you look sharp while still being super comfortable.

College Outfit Idea #2

I love a good denim or chambray shirt! Next Level Style Tip: You can wear them with dark denim, too.

For now, we’ll stick with our British Khaki chinos. Wear this outfit to class or on the weekend when you’re just hanging out with friends. The Uniqlo down jacket will keep you warm without being too bulky.

College Outfit Idea #3

Maybe you have a hot date or a more formal event that requires you to clean up a bit more than usual.

This would be the perfect fall / winter outfit for such an occasion. The vest is optional (depends on how cold it is) but works perfectly over the white OCBD and under the sportcoat for that extra layer of warmth.

If you didn’t wear the sportcoat, the chinos + OCBD + vest combo with these brown leather derbies is another great everyday outfit on its own.

Did you find this helpful?

If so, I’d love to hear from you! Tweet at me, or DM me on Instagram.

If you know someone who could use this article, please share it!

And if this is your first time visiting Effortless Gent, I’d love to send you more helpful style stuff. Subscribe to the site here »

Lean, Minimalist Fall & Winter Wardrobe Essentials for College Guys On a Budget

Short sleeve button up shirts and polos… they get a bad rap, man. I think that’s mostly because the nerds and dorks who wear them in TV shows and movies wear them all wrong.

The fit is off, the color is off, the length is off… everything is wrong.

But in warm weather, short sleeve shirts are a life-saver! Especially if you run hot, like myself.

In this article, we’re gonna cover every detail about how a short sleeve button up shirt and polo shirt should fit.

Let’s get into it!

By the way, click on any of the fit images below to enlarge in a new tab (for a more detailed view!)

How should a short sleeve shirt fit overall?

Overall, your short sleeve button-up shirt should fit slim, but not too tight.

“How do I know if my shirt is slim, but not too tight?” I hear you ask.

Try the sit down test. When trying on a new shirt, button it up like you normally would, and then sit down in a chair.

It should feel as comfortable (and have enough give) sitting down as it is while standing. The buttons shouldn’t be pulling apart; the shirt shouldn’t be stretching like spandex on your torso.

If, while sitting, you can pull the shirt away from your belly area about 1” or so (pretend it’s a hot day and you’re trying to get some airflow) then you’re good.

By the way, the short sleeve shirts you see in these photos are from Peter Manning. PMNYC is a long-time partner of EG and I’m psyched to have as the perfect example of a well-fitting short sleeve shirt in this article.

If you haven’t come across PMNYC yet and you’re a shorter / smaller guy, you’ve probably run into the issue of clothing proportions being off somehow… Whether it’s:

the shirt hem being too long
the sleeves being too long & wide
or the pockets being too big and low on your shirts and pants

Peter Manning’s taken care of all that with their clothing. They’re designed specifically for the guy of smaller stature (5’8″ and under), meaning everything—length, width, proportion, even pocket sizes!—are designed with the smaller man in mind.

PMNYC as a brand is the perfect fit for a “not so tall” effortless gent looking to build his Lean Wardrobe. They make modern, proportionately-sized versions of menswear classics. Each piece is thoughtfully designed and well made using high quality fabrics.

Think Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers style with direct-to-consumer pricing that we, the internet shopping generation, have gotten so spoiled by 😉

The guys at PMNYC are offering Effortless Gent readers a sweet deal (you lucky dog, you). Be one of the first 100 people to use code EG20 at checkout and receive 20% off your entire purchase!

Check out the short sleevers above, or click through to see the rest of their collection here »

Shoulders

How your shirt fits at the shoulder is, arguably, the most important thing when it comes to fit.

Similarly to a suit, the shoulder seam needs to sit right on top of your shoulder bone. Get as close as possible.

If your shirt is too big, the shoulder seam hangs off your shoulder bone and down your arm a bit.

If your shirt is too small, the shoulder seam rides up on your traps / collarbone, which causes the sleeve to fit weird. Most likely the shirt is just too small in general, so if you’re noticing this in the fitting room, size up.

Dwight Schrute bad example of short sleeve shirt fit — Dwight Schrute: Exhibiting how your shirt should NOT fit… (credit: NBC)

Hem or Body length

In order to wear a short sleeve shirt (or any shirt, really) untucked, the hem shouldn’t go too far past your belt and the waistband of your pants. So right where your waist starts to curve outward to form your bum? The shirt should end there.

If the hem goes past mid-butt, it can start to look sloppy worn untucked.

Opposite problem if the hem is too short. Like if the hem hits too close to the waistband, whenever you put your arms up or raise the roof at a dance party, your shirt will rise up and your stomach will be exposed, so…

If the shirt’s hem sits right under your chest and your midriff is showing, then you’re wearing a crop top shirt. Take that off, immediately.

Looking for style inspiration? Check out our Five Ways to Wear One article on short sleeve shirts »

Sleeve length

Imagine a line drawn from your shoulder bone to your elbow… bone. You want the hem of your sleeve to end right in the middle (or at the peak of your bicep if you lift your arm to flex ??

If the sleeve hem hits before mid-bicep, it’s too short, and you might get an armpit wedgie.

Past mid-bicep, closer to your elbow? Also bad. Too long and will look off, proportionally.

I often cuff my short sleeve shirts when they’re too long. So that’s an easy solution if yours hit too far down on your arm.

Point being: keep your sleeve hems close to the middle of your arm!

Sleeve width

Your sleeve should hug your arm. Not too tight, but more like a gentle hug. If you can fit a finger in between your sleeve and the skin on your arm, that’s comfortable territory.

Sleeves shouldn’t be too tight, of course, because that would be uncomfortable.

And if they’re too loose (like if you can fit your whole hand in between your sleeve and your arm) the sleeves will flare out and generally look terrible.

Cuffing your sleeve (see above) can sometimes help if they’re only slightly wider than you’d like, so give that a try. Otherwise, go with a different shirt.

Silhouette

A shirt’s silhouette can be a tough thing to evaluate. You want to look at the overall fit of the shirt, yes, but also how that shirt is cut.

Here’s the thing. Some shirts are meant to be looser, more billowy, and more boxy. Think of the aloha shirt with the camp collar.

example of aloha shirt hawaiian shirt with camp collar — Aloha! A rather sharp-looking aloha / Hawaiian shirt (credit: Wal-Mart)

When I wear a shirt with a looser silhouette, I make sure my pants or shorts are slim and trim. That helps to offset the loose and flowy silhouette of the shirt.

Does that make sense?

You might not have to worry about this just yet, as it’s more of an “advanced” style thing, but it’s something to keep in mind.

“What if my shirt doesn’t fit perfectly everywhere?”

You may end up with a shirt that fits OK in some places, but not others. For example:

The shirt fits in the body, but the sleeves are too long
The shirt fits in the shoulders, but is too loose in the body
The shirt fits fine but the sleeves are too long / wide

And on and on.

You have to pick and choose your battles. Ideally, your shirt fits perfectly in all the areas I pointed out above… but sometimes, it doesn’t work out that way.

Maybe your body isn’t perfectly designed for the shirt you’re wearing, or the brand makes clothes that are more skinny fit or more traditional fit, etc.

Could be a number of reasons.

This is the order of importance, as far as fit is concerned, if you can’t have it all:

Shoulders – if the shoulder seam doesn’t sit on top of your shoulder bone, chances are the rest of the shirt won’t fit correctly either
Sleeve width – this is hard to fake. If it’s too loose (often the case) then you can’t make it smaller without tailoring, which is a pain. If it’s too tight, then it will be uncomfortable
Body – generally, shirts that fit well in the shoulders tend to fit the body. The silhouette may be boxier, or it may be more slim, but you’ll have to try on the shirt to find out. Typically, you wear short sleeve shirts in the warmer months, and in my opinion, it’s OK if the body is a bit looser (allows for more airflow and I don’t like when my shirts stick to my body when it’s hot)
Shirt length – Usually a good french tuck / half tuck solves the problem when the shirt is only a tad too long. If it’s way too long, like covering more than half your butt in the back, then tuck it in, or don’t wear that shirt at all
Sleeve length – As long as the sleeve width is fine, you can easily cuff the hem so the sleeve is shorter

How should polo shirts fit?

Polo shirts should fit the same way I described short sleeve button-up shirts, so simply follow those fit guidelines.

A few things you want to pay attention to:

How your polo shirt drapes

Overall, yes, your polo shirt should fit slim and not tight. But keep in mind the drape of a polo shirt can be different from a button-up.

That’s because the fabric is different. Typically, polos are made with a softer, lighter knit fabric (pique, almost like a waffle texture, or jersey cotton, like a T-shirt, are some examples).

Button-up shirts are generally made from a heavier-weight, woven fabric, which lends more structure to the shirt, meaning it doesn’t hug every curve of your body like a polo shirt can.

So if you aren’t super slim and trim, and maybe you have some excess weight you’d rather not put on display, it’s OK if your shirt is slightly looser (but still slim overall… I don’t want you wearing a shirt the size of a garbage bag).

Traditional polo shirts have a longer back hem compared to the front.

These are designed to be tucked in, and if the back tail is more than halfway down your butt, it’s too long to be worn untucked.

Now you know how your short sleeve shirts should fit!

Hope this article helps! If you have any other questions, I’d love to clarify. Hit me up on Twitter.

Thanks to our friends at Peter Manning for partnering with us on this article, and thanks to our dear readers for shopping the brands that support this site. Check out more of Peter Manning’s Short Sleevers here[/earnist_link link_id="78647"] »

Short Sleeve Button Ups and Polos: How Should They Fit?

Today, we’re taking a look at the Court, a minimal leather sneaker from one of my favorite brands.

Here’s my Greats Court sneaker review, what it’s like unboxing these beauties, and my first-impressions.

Looking for a new pair of smart, stylish, versatile sneakers to add to your collection? If so, consider the Court sneaker from Greats.

They’re a modern take on the classic basketball shoe, constructed in Italy with premium materials – full grain calf skin leather and side trim and an Italian Margom rubber sole.

You get an incredible low top shoe that fits perfectly in your smart sharp wardrobe. These can go with a well tailored suit or a more casual look – and come in a variety of colorways.

Greats is a Brooklyn-based sneaker brand with a focus on classic, timeless silhouettes. That means they make the kind of shoes that easily fit into your Lean Wardrobe. Well made, versatile, and stylish.

Even though I haven’t had a chance to put these through the paces, I have been wearing my Greats Royale for a while now. They’ve easily become one of my favorite go-to sneakers for just about everything. So I wouldn’t be surprised if the Court sneaker also turns into a favorite.

But before we get to all that, let’s open the charcoal gray Greats box and see what’s inside.

Minimal Sneakers with Top Quality Materials

The tan leather has a soft, supple texture that’s pleasing to the touch with an even, smooth color. Over time it will develop and change a little, as all great leather does. Some guys prefer the crisp and fresh look of brand new leather. But if you ask me, that slight worn in style is perfect.

There’s some subtle suede detailing at the toe box and tongue with the Greats Court. You’ll also see the brand’s logo banner stitched simply at heel.

The off-white sole and gum outsole are clean and classic, with nice traction. These shoes are all about the details, even down to the waxed flat laces. They’re made to stay in place, look great, and hold up to plenty of use.

The Attention to Detail Shows

One thing I love about Greats is how much attention to detail you get on the inside of the shoe. The interior of the Court is fully lined in luxurious, full grain leather. Not many brands line the inside of their shoes with the same top quality leather as you get on the outside.

Being lined with full grain leather means these sneakers are super comfortable. And you can wear them without socks if you want – though I prefer no-show socks myself.

As far as care and maintenance, these are the kind of investment-worthy sneakers that deserve shoe trees whenever they’re in the closet. Treat them just like you would any leather dress shoe.

When it comes to sizing, in my experience Greats run true to size. I’m a size 9, that’s what I have here, and they fit just right. And these sneakers are super comfortable even if you have a wider foot. I’ve had no issues with pinching or discomfort that I’ve had before with some narrow shoes.

The Verdict After Unboxing…

As you can tell, I’m a fair of Greats. I like the brand and I love this entry in their lineup, the Court. They’re right in the sweet spot of top quality material and design at a fair price point. If you’re looking for a pair of versatile sneakers to slide into your rotation, it’s hard to go wrong here.

Greats Court Sneaker Review: Unboxing + First Impressions

Menswear subscription boxes are all the rage. They promise to help you find the perfect clothing for your personal style.

But can they really help you build the ideal Lean Wardrobe?

Menswear subscription boxes are super popular right now. You sign up and fill out a questionnaire or talk to an employee about your lifestyle and fashion preferences. Then they send you a box full of clothing they think will work for you.

And – voila! – you have an amazing wardrobe full of clothing you love. Right?

Wrong.

Almost without exception, I hate subscription boxes for men. At least the ones that are 100% focused on clothing.

That’s an unpopular opinion, I know. But here’s my argument against them, some possible exceptions, and 2 not-quite-subscription boxes that might work for you.

Why Clothing Subscription Boxes Are NOT Worth It

The supposed point of clothing subscription boxes are to help you find new styles and add them to your wardrobe. But in reality, they usually do the exact opposite.

Curating your personal style is something we talk about a lot at EG. Developing your Lean Wardrobe is all about getting to know yourself, discovering what styles you love, and learning to dress in a way that gives you confidence.

That’s a deeply personal, rewarding process. So how could you delegate that to some employee at a subscription box company?

Simply put, monthly menswear subscription boxes are not for you if you’re:

Picky about what you wear
Someone with specific taste and style
Advanced in your style journey and already know what you like

The gimmick of these boxes is that other people pick stuff for you. They curate outfits based on what they like, what they think may sell best, and what their customers generally might like.

Nothing about the is specifically tailored for you.

In my experience, after a few months with a subscription box, you’ll wind up with a pile of stuff you don’t like and won’t ever wear. Basically, the opposite of what we recommend at EG.

And if you’re a neat freak, this is even worse. All those boxes add up to a ton of clutter – definitely no good for minimalist apartment dwellers.

Who Subscription Boxes Might Work For

If you’re currently a shorts, jeans, and T-shirts kind of guy and want to step it up, clothing subscription boxes for men might be a good place to start. But only if you are:

Generally lazy when it comes to your personal style
Totally new to the idea of style and menswear
Don’t have any time or effort to dedicate to the process of developing your own style

Think of it this way: curating your own Lean Wardrobe is like cooking from scratch using a recipe. You learn about the ingredients, choose the right ones for the dish, and develop your skills on your way to preparing a delicious meal.

Ordering a menswear subscription box is like getting delivery. You’re tired, you’re hungry now, and you just need something to eat. You don’t care about the art of cooking, the ingredients, or the process. You just want to eat.

To be honest, everybody orders delivery sometimes. In a pinch, it’s a lifesaver. But it’s not the best way to eat, day in and day out.

So – although I don’t recommend them – subscription boxes might work for you if you just need some quick additions to your wardrobe and you don’t yet have any sense of your personal style.

Not-Quite Subscription Boxes That I Like

There are 2 subscription box adjacent options that have the feel of a monthly box without the downsides mentioned above.

Menlo Club

Menlo Club is a good option if you want to add some casual, streetwear, and activewear style to your Lean Wardrobe. You can shop their site directly instead of going with their subscription service.

Amazon Prime Wardrobe

In the Prime Wardrobe section of Amazon, you can fill up a box with clothing of your choosing. Once it arrives, you have 7 days to try everything on at home, keep what you like, and send back what you don’t. So it’s not a subscription service, but it has a similar feel. And it’s a good way to learn about what works or doesn’t for you in the comfort of your own home.

Bottom Line: I Don’t Recommend Subscription Boxes for Men

I can’t endorse them. I believe guys should be able to understand their own style. Get out there and curate your own look. You don’t want someone else to do it.

Think about your lifestyle, your budget, your work environment, what you do for fun, etc – and then build your wardrobe around that. Skipping that process and outsourcing it to a subscription box employee is a disservice to yourself, not a convenience.

Have you ever tried a monthly menswear subscription box? What was your experience like?

Are Menswear Subscription Boxes Worth It?

Have you ever wondered what the differences are between a more affordable and a more luxurious pair of all white leather sneakers?

In this Greats Royale review, we look at 3 key details that separate the best white leather sneakers from the cheaper options.

Classic all white leather sneakers deserve a place in every guy’s Lean Wardrobe. They look great with just about everything – from chinos and denim to tailored shorts. You can even get away with wearing them with a dressed-down suit (when styled right).

So you’re convinced – you want a pair of the best white leather sneakers. But there are tons of options at a wide range of price points, from under $50 to over $400.

Which should you choose? Are expensive white sneakers worth it?

Before we give you the answer, consider these 3 main differences between affordable and high end sneakers. Then you can decide which price point and level of quality is right for you.

For this review and comparison, we’ll be looking at the high end – the $180 Greats Royale – versus the affordable $40 K-Swiss Quick Court sneakers.

1 – Type of Leather

High quality leather shoes are – unsurprisingly – made with a higher quality form of leather than their cheap alternatives. More affordable options tend to use “genuine leather”, one of the cheapest and lowest quality types of leather available.

For the purposes of our comparisons, the K-Swiss sneakers are made from genuine leather. (At least that’s what it seems – there’s no specific mention of what type of leather is used on their website. And that’s usually a giveaway that it’s the cheapest kind.)

The Greats Royale, on the other hand, are made with full grain leather. What’s the advantage?

Better feel and texture
Less prone to cracking and similar damage
Appearance is enhanced by age and wear

It’s not just that the leather is more luxurious. Greats uses much more of it in their shoes for a high end look and feel. The entire upper, inside, and tongue are lined with the same full grain leather. You won’t find that on cheaper shoes.

2 – Construction

High quality leather shoes – like these Greats Royale white leather sneakers – are built to last. They’re also designed with comfort in mind. Notice a few examples that set these two shoes apart:

Cheap sneakers:

Inside isn’t lined with leather, just a small area at the heel
Tongue isn’t padded

High end sneakers:

Inside is totally lined with top quality leather
Tongue and collar are padded

These details make more expensive sneakers much more comfortable to wear. If you’re using them all day, your feet will appreciate the feel of high end construction – like the additional leather lining and padding.

3 – Durability

Because of their lower quality materials and construction, cheap sneakers can’t last as long as their high end counterparts. You have to replace cheap leather shoes more often. They break down, wear out, and show their age quickly.

This is especially true of so-called “genuine leather” shoes. The stress points where your foot puts most pressure on the leather upper will show up quick. This cracking and damage to the leather is common in low quality shoes.

Conversely, high end white leather sneakers are designed to last. Full grain leather ages better and won’t crack like the cheap stuff. In the case of the Greats Royale, even the laces are made with durability in mind. They’re waxed cotton, so they look great, resist dirt, and last longer.

Greats Royale Review Verdict: Are Expensive White Sneakers Worth It?

Yes, definitely. If you can afford to spend $150-$200 for full grain leather sneakers, you will get a better experience and an all around better pair of shoes with the Greats Royale.

This principle of investing in quality applies to all your leather goods – shoes, belts, wallets, bags, etc.

When you spend a little more on a thoughtfully designed product with higher quality materials, you get more out of it. And at EG, we always recommend that you build your Lean Wardrobe from classic, high quality stuff that you will enjoy wearing and will last a long time.

One exception: If you just want the look of a classic white sneakers and longevity and durability aren’t critical for you, you can get the cheap shoes. Keep in mind that the experience won’t be the same and you’ll have to replace them pretty soon.

What do you think of our Greats Royale review? Is it worth it to you to spend more? Or are you just interested in the look and not so much quality?

Greats Royale Review: Are Expensive White Sneakers Worth It?

I received an email a few weeks ago with a great question.

A young man named Nick wanted to know how to dress well as a teenager when everyone around him at school dresses ultra-casual – think basketball shorts, cargo shorts, T-shirts, and hoodies.

Nick wants to dress sharp with a more grown-up style. Maybe rock some chinos, an OCBD, or a stylish sweater. But he isn’t sure how to pull it off. Plus, he’s worried about his new style standing out too much.

Sound familiar? Probably – because I get this same question from grown men who work in casual office environments too. They’re sick of looking like they just rolled out of bed and straight into their cubicles. They want to dress up a bit for the office – but without sticking out like a sore thumb.

This is not a problem exclusive to teenagers. The earlier you learn to take control of your style and do so with confidence, the better off you’ll be in the long run.

But I get it. It’s easy for me to tell you, “Just do it!” But putting it into practice? That’s a whole different thing.

In this article, I’m sharing 4 tips about how to dress well for all you teenage guys out there struggling with your style – that means you, Nick.

Are you a reader in your 20s, 30s, or older?

You should still read this article. These tips apply to men of all ages, especially when you want to dress sharper than the casual crowd around you.

Tip #1 – Change Just One Item

Let’s say your current go-to school outfit is basketball shorts and a navy hoodie. You can take that oversized, shapeless hoodie and step it up with a navy sweater instead.

Oversized hoodie → Fitted navy sweater

We’re not talking anything too crazy or different. You can even keep the basketball shorts (for now… though you probably won’t want to if your top half is already looking super sharp). Just by changing one item – ditching the hoodie for a fitted sweater – you’re already starting to elevate your look.

What if you tend to wear a plain cotton T-shirt? Change it up by adding a chambray shirt on top. The resulting look is still casual, but adds interest. And it’s a good way to experiment with layering without looking too formal.

The goal is to keep swapping out one item in every outfit. Eventually, you’ll develop a new wardrobe full of upgrade pieces that elevate your style. And since you’re doing it a little at a time, the change won’t be as shocking.

Here are a few more examples of one item swaps you can make to improve your high school style:

Basketball shorts → Fitted chino shorts (A few summer favorites.)

Graphic T-shirt → Casual fitted polo (Our top picks.)

Faded baggy jeans → Fitted dark denim (A great pair, plus how to style them.)

Tip #2 – Take Your Time

This is not a race. You want a smooth transition into your new style – not a sudden crash.

A subtle style transition that takes shape over the course of several weeks or months is best. Nothing too jarring or obvious. No sudden changes from shorts and a hoodie to a suit and tie.

Think of your goal as updating your style with as much subtlety as possible. You want people to be impressed by your style, not surprised by it. The perfect reaction is: “That looks great on you!” You want to avoid: “What are you wearing?!”

So move slowly and steadily towards your goal – resist the urge to sprint.

Tip #3 – Embrace Trends

You’re young. You’re in high school. You deserve to enjoy the way you dress. This is the perfect time to embrace trends and try out any new style you think looks cool.

Let’s be honest – one day (much too soon) you’ll feel like you’re too old to pull off the trendiest fashions. So take advantage now while you can.

What’s hot in the music, movies, and celebrity culture you love? Is there a specific artist or star whose look you’d like to try for yourself? Go for it!

If you decide you don’t love it, you can always go back to the classics. But you just might find your favorite new outfits this way. When you’re young, having fun with fashion is all about experimenting with trends and discovering your favorite look. Don’t be afraid to be the trendsetter at your school.

Quick note to the older guys: Yes, you can experiment with trends too. Maybe not like a rockstar or in outfits means for teens, but definitely with thoughtful details that update your style and show that you’re paying attention to what’s on trend in the menswear world.

Tip #4 – Chill Out, People Don’t Really Care

Reality check: Everyone is caught up in their own world. They’re all obsessed with themselves. It’s true in high school. And it will still be true when you’re older and working at the office.

So just go all in on the styles you love. Wear what you want and what you like. People don’t really care. But you’ll feel so much more confident and relaxed when you’re wearing something you love.

It’s true, some people will make negative comments. But that nonsense is really a reflection of their own lack of confidence.

When you stand out for looking your best, the naysayers are naturally going to worry about their appearance. Their negativity comes from a fear that you’re dressing better than they are – which you probably are. ?

You’re Young! Enjoy It!

Experiment with your style while you’re still a young man. Get to know yourself as a person in the process. You can easily dial it back when you decide you’re not so into that last outfit you tried. No worries.

Eventually, you’ll nail down a solid personal style – one you can continue to craft and improve on as you get older. That way, you’re already ahead of the game with your grown-up style.

Which tip did you find most helpful? Which tip do you want to implement today?

Barron Cuadro

3 Reasons To Wear Tan Leather Loafers

1. The loafer is the perfect shoe for a smart casual style

2. It elevates your casual looks

3. It’s super comfortable!

The best tan leather loafers: What do they look like?

What sets this loafer apart from the others?

“Which loafer are you showing in these photos?”

Why Cognac or Tan Leather Loafers?

Why go for a pebbled leather texture?

Wondering how to wear loafers? A few outfit ideas

1. Casual outfit with loafers

2. Loafers with a Smart Sharp Casual outfit

3. Formal outfit with loafers

Have I sold you on the tan leather loafer yet?

SuitSupply’s New Custom Made program

SuitSupply Custom Made vs Custom Made To Measure

So what’s the difference between SuitSupply’s Custom Made program and their Custom Made To Measure program?

1. In-store suiting = Off-the-rack / Ready-to-wear

2. Custom Made → similar to Made-to-Measure

3. Custom Made To Measure = Fully Custom

SuitSupply’s old MTM program didn’t make sense…

The New and Improved SuitSupply Custom Made program

SuitSupply’s Custom Made program can be done in-store or online

I went through the ordering process in person (but you don’t have to)

First: Try on a bunch of RTW suits

Second: Fabric selection

Third: Jacket fit and details

Fourth: Trouser details

Fifth: Choose your buttons

Optional: Vest style selection

Sixth: Another pair of pants?

Finally: Choosing your jacket and trouser size

The Custom Made program includes free alterations

How did my suit turn out?

Is SuitSupply’s Custom Made program worth it?

That’s all I got for ya!

Colors, Fabric, and Fit

The Best Colors for Fall and Winter Clothes

When it comes to color, think of your wardrobe in this same way.

The Best Fabrics for Fall and Winter Clothes

Looking for layering inspiration?

How Fall and Winter Clothes Should Fit

YOU’LL LOVE THIS ONE, TOO

Fall/Winter suits and Dress Clothes

How to Wear a Suit and Tie in Cold Weather

What kind of fabric should my fall / winter suits be made from?

RELATED

Are some colors better than others for fall and winter suits?

What about shirts, ties, and shoes?

Need some winter outfit inspiration?

Smart Casual in Cold Weather

Smart Casual Accessories

How to Choose and Care for Fall/Winter Shoes

Fall/Winter Footwear

Start with Socks

Winter-Ready Shoes and Boots

How to Wear Boots with Every Outfit

Protect Your Leather Shoes from Wet Weather

Dealing with Salt

How to Avoid Slipping on the Ice

EG’s Recommendations for Your Fall/Winter Wardrobe

YOU’LL LOVE THIS ONE, TOO

Fall / Winter Shirts

Fall / Winter Midlayers

Fall / Winter pants

Fall / Winter Shoes

Fall / Winter Outerwear

How do you dress for fall and winter?

Let me introduce you to Spier & Mackay

5 Reasons You Should Shop Spier & Mackay For Your Next Suit (and Sport coat, and Dress Shirt, and…)

Reason 1: These are Modern, Updated Versions of Classic Menswear Staples

A Quick Aside re: Silhouette

Reason 2: You Get Insane Bang For Your Buck

Reason 3: Incredible Fabric Selection For The Price

Reason 4: Suit fit is on point

Reason 5: You can buy your whole wardrobe from Spier & Mackay

Add Spier & Mackay to your list of must-shop stores every season

What’s your favorite piece from Spier & Mackay?

When buying your college wardrobe essentials…